Kris van Assche’s debut at Berluti during Paris Fashion Week.

It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”


Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:

  • Scarlet - Hot Pink combination

  • Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)

  • Overcoats will always be … grey

  • Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.

  • Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 2 & 3 HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright - again. Another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' and attract the international media with their work.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties…. and before Milan Fashion Week here are the higlights from day 2 & 3.

ALEX MULLINS

Women presented menswear in Mullins’ AW19 show which was one of our favourites.

Mens pieces became Gender fluid in terms of styling with denim and tailoring being the key elements of the collection. The colour pallete consists of blue, yellow, oatmail and graphics in red and black details.

Mullins said his starting point for the lineup happened on his way home one night, when he saw woman getting out of a car wearing a yellow mohair scarf and a coat, except it turned out “it wasn’t yellow mohair, it was just her hair and her jacket was just a really s—t, old shirt.”

ASTRID ANDERSEN

Streetwear meets luxury fashion in Astrid Andersen with blue, red and orange being the main colours of the AW19 collection. An exploration of the classic male silhouette and the pin stripe tracksuit, the Autumn/Winter designs are an ode to 1920s’ American fashion, a step away from the label’s previous inspirations. However, despite its new unexpected design, Andersen remains comfortably rooted in the materials used in even her earliest collections, in particular her signature combination of lace and fur.

PER GÖTESSON

In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring. The colour pallete was in soft tones with apricot, dusty lavender and off white being the main colours of the collection.

XANDER ZHOU

A very thughtful but playful collection which came from the future for the future. From prosthetics used on models from ‘alien’ eyes to bionic components the Xander Zhou AW19 was the favourite one on instagram.

The clothes were a beautiful paradox too – modern men accessorising with flippers and furry feeding bottles to engineers donning 70s-esque polonecks. The collection overall has a hopeful message, one of belonging. Accepting the ‘other’ is the future..

OLIVER SPENCER

Eco-wools, tailored coats , utilitarian bomber jackets and velvet trousers were some of the statement pieces of the AW19 collection in OLIVER SPENCER show. The earth colours were on top with many blue tones too and the ‘eco-green’ on its best.

We loved the suits and all the tailoring he proposed like every season with the Royal Academy as the show venue being one of our fevourites this year.

FENG CHEN WANG

History and heritage permeates the AW19 FENG CHEN WANG collection through the symbolism, iconography and painting with brush strokes, turning her artistic ideas into design prints and forms. In a collection of 41 looks, Fend Chen Wang’s textures and palettes are as pure as the story their telling – from pale pastels to soft fabrics, there was bold tailoring to portray strength and oversized shapes to show creative power.

Paris Fashion Week Men's:Kim Jones' debut with Dior Homme SS19

Kim Jones made his debut in Paris on Saturday afternoon as artistic director for Dior Men, the rechristened Dior Homme, completing the changing of the guard for the spring/summer 2019 season. In a tribute to Dior and to his own heritage, Jones invited Prince Nikolai of Denmark to start the show.

The British designer mined the Dior archive for inspiration to pay tribute to the man who established the fabled brand in 1946.This aesthetic approach lends itself to a softer, more relaxed Dior Men than we are used to seeing. 

Dior Homme SS19 has streetwear touches and elements but Jones moved away from the huge trend, offering to the audience pure tailoring luxury. “I’ve moved away from that a bit,” he explained. “[That’s] easy modern menswear; this is a lot more elegant and sophisticated and a little bit romantic too, which is what Dior is.”

source: guardian.com

LOEWE Men's Spring Summer 2019

The Spanish Fashion house has presented its men’s spring/summer 2019 collection designed by Jonathan Anderson.

The collection was presented in the LOEWE headquarters on Place Saint-Sulpice in Paris, where the space was transformed into a naïve playground featuring images from the house’s latest printed publication shot by American art photographer Duane Michals.

LOEWE’s new menswear collection flits across time and space to illicit a boyish study of dressing up – where childhood memories haze with botanical and geometric motifs like sea urchins and stained glass, cowri shells and whelks, bandanas, and mythological lions.

Tom Ford SS19 Preview

Tom Ford has suddenly presented a preview of his SS19 menswear collection on Instagram during Paris Fashion Week shocking the fashion world with the unexpected posts. 

The designer shared a selection of looks focusing on details of the collection and the styling for SS19. Captured on Polaroid, the men’s collection features sophisticated suiting, luxurious outerwear, and lounge wear.

Milan Fashion Week Men's: Naomi Campbell and Monica Bellucci at Dolce & Gabbana show

Milan, June 16: all eyes were on Monica Bellucci and Naomi Campbell. The duo shocked Men’s Fashion Week by appearing in Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2019 show.

Dolce & Gabbana just presented their Spring/Summer 2019 men’s collection, which they describe as an homage to diversity. Gay and straight couples, 50-somethings walking alongside younger men, a family with child… the whole world was represented.

But two extra special guests rounded out the cast: Monica Bellucci, who last walked for the house in 1992, and Naomi Campbell, the ultimate 90s supermodel. Bellucci walked in a resolutely masculine suit paired with sky-high stilettos, while Campbell wore a white-striped black tuxedo, with outlandish brooches and a hat adding. An exceptional presentation in the history of an Italian house that has often flirted with controversy.

source: vogue homme

London Fashion Week Men's SS19: THE HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright- again. I suppose it was another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' for another one season.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties... three days full of fashion; and before the final shows of today and the beggining of Milan's Fashion Week, here are some of our favourite highlights and fashion moments.


DANIEL W. FLETCHER debuts SS19 COLLECTION AT LFW:M

With his first ever runway show in London Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher was one of the names that you could hear everywhere during the weekend.

For SS19, the British Designer chose a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white  and he moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.

Monochromatic androgyny looks, along with some some gender subversion elements were some of the highlights of the collection, plus THE prints which was a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh.


JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

One of our favourite collections inspired by the societal outliers of the Swiss punk movement, new wave and Dave Gahan, lead singer of synth-pop icons Depeche Mode

Strong contemporary tailoring and pieces in a pallet of black, white, red and a shade of green amazed the fashionistas. Tight-fitting shorts styled with oversized blazers and crop tops giving us some of our favourite looks for SS19.


OLIVER SPENCER

Classy and classic, the SS19 of Oliver Spencer has taken classic tailoring to another level.

The colour pallet was in grey and ice blue tones and the fifty shades of... pink. The  tailored pieces were beautifuly combined with oversized coats or polo t-shirts bringing out a floral-spring mood, without floral patterns at all.. Well except the notable cinematic intro imagery with spring fields and flowers.

 It's worth mentioning the noteworthy model names who walked for Oliver Spencer's SS19 show, with our favourite one, Richard Biedul leading the runway.


Ben Sherman

The Ben Sherman SS19 collection was inspired by young rock and roll icons of the 60s and from the time period when the designer first visited America to build the identity of the brand.

Iconic checks and candy stripes fused together with a unique twist, blending rock and roll style with preppy ivy leagues looks to create the ideal Ben Sherman style. Colour pallets are rooted in different blues, silver pink and tomato cream. Dark Red and Olive Green become the new neutrals and a collaboration with HOUSE OF HOLLAND for the second season has as a result of several colours and prints.


ALEX MULLINS

This season Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs in a perfect symmetry. The SS19 collection opened with a series of suits in khaki, black and tan all with contrasting coloured cut out vests more suited to a 90s rave pulled taut across the jackets, playing with proportion and genre.

Some of the highlight looks consist of ribbed knitted jumpers, white sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘Alex Mullins’ appealed to the logomania trend, metallics (yes; for the summer period!), standout pink and white suiting and Japanese inspired prints. 

Thom Browne Fall 2018: a statement show to remember

Androgynous looks and grey flannel for women; pants down, heels and puppy heads for men. 

A runway which looked like an art studio and “Lady painters painting portraits of ladies, in grey flannel.”  Models styled with androgynous outfits and with hair inspired from 18th century French aristocracy strolled along the runway, taking up positions for the painters while Madonna's 'Vogue' was the main soundtrack of the show. 

For the second and main part of the show, models walked wearing deconstructed outfits, all in the 'fifty shades of grey' flannel Some remind us men's office clothes, some others school uniform and the hero pieces are definitely statements inspired by the same century. 

Half dresses combined with others, skirts as tops and the opposite were some of the highlights.

And as a conclusion the most powerful statement of all: male models wearing grey dog head masks and heels walked out, all harnessed, followed by Grace Bol, the South Sundanese model holding their leashes and wearing a ball gown.

dogs.jpg