London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.
#PradaSS20 Menswear was shown in Shanghai at the Silo Hall of Minsheng Wharf. An arrangement of neon lights outlines the industrial form language of the hall, enhancing the intricate geometries, generating a glowing enfilade that shimmers in subtle pastel colors.
“I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted after his show at the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday evening, the first of the ready-to-wear season. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beaten up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”
His AW19 collections consists of a sellection of rollencks, satins and tailoring on its best. Modern pieces with a nostalgic mood and minimal lines come to constrast with the very specific puffy jackets and coats.
Kim Jones did it again… and we loved every single look of this new DIOR Men collection for autumn/winter 2019 -2020.
He offered a remarkably refined vision of modern masculinity and here are some higlights to note before you check out the new collection:
After the enormous floral effigy of Monsieur Dior created by KAWS and the 39-foot tall Hajime Sorayama robot, this season he staged the show On A Conveyor Belt.
The Clothes Offered A Modern Vision Of Elegance.
The animal print will be the new men’s essential.
Raymond Pettibon Offered Up Punk Couture
“This time I wanted the clothes to be the statues,” said Kim Jones
It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”
Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:
Scarlet - Hot Pink combination
Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)
Overcoats will always be … grey
Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.
Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.
Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.
There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.
The industrial grand hall of the Deposito, part of Fondazione Prada complex, has been transformed into an arena of light and shadows. Miuccia Prada is back at it again as she serves to us the fashion reality and she takes inspiration from old movies like Frankenstein.
When the collection itself appears, it follows suit. Black is the colour that dominates, highlighted by bursts of vivid coloured garments or accessories, such as multiple belts wrapped around the models waist, neon pink boots and bold red feathered headpieces and pale blue glasses that are reminiscent of scientific goggles.
Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.
The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.
The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style
source: Vogue Italia
Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright - again. Another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' and attract the international media with their work.
Three days full of shows, presentations and parties…. and before Milan Fashion Week here are the higlights from day 2 & 3.
Women presented menswear in Mullins’ AW19 show which was one of our favourites.
Mens pieces became Gender fluid in terms of styling with denim and tailoring being the key elements of the collection. The colour pallete consists of blue, yellow, oatmail and graphics in red and black details.
Mullins said his starting point for the lineup happened on his way home one night, when he saw woman getting out of a car wearing a yellow mohair scarf and a coat, except it turned out “it wasn’t yellow mohair, it was just her hair and her jacket was just a really s—t, old shirt.”
Streetwear meets luxury fashion in Astrid Andersen with blue, red and orange being the main colours of the AW19 collection. An exploration of the classic male silhouette and the pin stripe tracksuit, the Autumn/Winter designs are an ode to 1920s’ American fashion, a step away from the label’s previous inspirations. However, despite its new unexpected design, Andersen remains comfortably rooted in the materials used in even her earliest collections, in particular her signature combination of lace and fur.
In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring. The colour pallete was in soft tones with apricot, dusty lavender and off white being the main colours of the collection.
A very thughtful but playful collection which came from the future for the future. From prosthetics used on models from ‘alien’ eyes to bionic components the Xander Zhou AW19 was the favourite one on instagram.
The clothes were a beautiful paradox too – modern men accessorising with flippers and furry feeding bottles to engineers donning 70s-esque polonecks. The collection overall has a hopeful message, one of belonging. Accepting the ‘other’ is the future..
Eco-wools, tailored coats , utilitarian bomber jackets and velvet trousers were some of the statement pieces of the AW19 collection in OLIVER SPENCER show. The earth colours were on top with many blue tones too and the ‘eco-green’ on its best.
We loved the suits and all the tailoring he proposed like every season with the Royal Academy as the show venue being one of our fevourites this year.
FENG CHEN WANG
History and heritage permeates the AW19 FENG CHEN WANG collection through the symbolism, iconography and painting with brush strokes, turning her artistic ideas into design prints and forms. In a collection of 41 looks, Fend Chen Wang’s textures and palettes are as pure as the story their telling – from pale pastels to soft fabrics, there was bold tailoring to portray strength and oversized shapes to show creative power.
ORGANIC and wearable were words that came to mind when linen and natural fibres featured in JW Anderson’s LFW AW18 collection. Combining his male and female looks into one show was a new venture for Anderson but a venture that was worth it
Pleated chiffon, woven accessories, bunched collars, fun colourful paisley, and pom poms all appeared on the runway. From heavy knit to neon trainers with furry laces, the collection was making a bold and complex statement. With Anderson’s own art collection and Martin Belou’s sprouting fungi tubes as centrepiece installations dotted across the catwalk, the relationship between art and the natural world was considered.
The American designer showed his first menswear runway collection in New York and we loved every single piece.
After a lot of menswear presentations in the past, Tom Ford has presented his first menswear show during New York Fashion Week. The show was so 'on point' and the designer gave us a taste from all the styles and pieces. Alongside snakeskin trousers and matching cowboy boots, pearlescent tailoring and sateen biker trousers, Ford shook things up with tassel loafers finished with chunky sneaker soles, a lemon-yellow hoodie (a Tom Ford hoodie? Yes, please) and a hefty python-print puffer jacket.
The classic tailoring pieces and simple overcoats are the brand's hero pieces so they were a strong element as well.
At the end of the show six-pack models walked in branded underwear and we have already chosen our favourite.
Just before saying 'goodbye' to this seasons' Men's Fashion Weeks, we stopped by Milan to refresh your mind with some of the legendary brands and collections. Milan had one of its most notable men fashion shows this season and we chose our favourites to share with you.
One of my favourite set up and Venues. Low lighting and mirror columns in the runway gave the illusion that you were watching the show through a mirror.The collection consisted of three main colours black , blue and military green.
The whole vibe was more on the military side with army cut jackets and coats. My favorite look is definitely this turtle neck knit jumper paired with blue leather trousers.
This is one of my favourite Versace collections to date. Maximalism at its finest and a collection full of bold prints -what else of course- .
This season the legendary brand drawn inspiration from its own house as Donatella showcased archive prints and pieces combined with the brand new ones, paying tribute to her brother Gianni Versace. The medusa logo was printed into rich gold silk and paired with plenty of tartan created amazing visuals.
My favorite look - this pinned striped blazer paired with an oversized v neck a scarf ,pvc looking trousers and Versace’s own take on dad sneakers.
With a set design to look like an airport the models arrived on the catwalk waiting to claim their luggages. For the third collection in a row, Venturini Fendi collaborated with an artist and the result was remarkable.
This season’s new arrival was Glaswegian graphic specialist Reilly, who Venturini Fendi first followed on Instagram after he posted a casually conceived logo clash with her house and Fila. “I thought, Uh oh, I’m going to get sued!” Reilly reported. Instead he was backstage in a raffia-fringed Fendi parka watching his capsule collection of T-shirts and collage-print mainline pieces traveling the runway.
The iconic FF print appeared on shearling-edged, diagonal quilt technical wear and accessories including the hands-free, headstrap-attached mini umbrellas that were among the coolest accessories in a collection packed to bursting with finery, flair, and wit.
Favourite look: The logo faux (?) fur jacket with matching gloves and man bag.
The MSGM collection was presented on real Italian students rather than models . Giorgetti worked on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes and this season he added a ‘community-versus-individuality’ dynamic; which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves with...
The designer gave to the looks a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained.
These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel.
Favorite look: Satin tshirt and striped jogger trousers.
Words: Elias Ttiggis
A first glimpse at Louis Vuitton Men's Fall Winter 2018 Fashion Show by Kim Jones.
After 7 years at Louis Vuitton Kim Jones stepped down from his role as Men’s Artistic Director and the finale was remarkable.
The designer presented a collection rich in sportswear references including a series of jersey tops and parkas finished with dramatic crater prints, crocodile backpacks and double-faced cashmere baseball tops.
The nomadic mood, rodeo inspired flankman-shorts, the intarsia mink coats from Russia and Siberia and a 'greatest hits' o previous LV collections; were all there.
The finale was the perfect conclusion to Jones' incredible fashion journey with Louis Vuitton. His last time on LV runway was along with the super models Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.
Maison Valentino unveiled its AW18/19 collection during Paris Fashion Week which marked a new era for the legendary fashion brand.
Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive runs through the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli leading the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine.
The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base. The short bomber, the down jackets with an oversize VLTN logo created in collaboration with Moncler are paired with nylon messenger bags and the white sneakers becoming elements of a revised urban repertoire.
Dandy Detour: Menswear Collection Autumn Winter 2018/19
Etro Dandy invites you into his home on a journey through his private life and collected memories.
Fine suiting is front and center for the occasion. Checks, paisley prints, and more decorate an amazing selection of pieces.
The regal presentation took place in t Palazzo del Ghiaccio during Milan Fashion Week.