Paris Fashion Week Men's: Our favourites for SS 20

Paris Fashion Week Men’s has now ended and here are our favourite shows and designers for spring/summer 2020:

DIOR

Classic and classy with modern aesthetic and the new tailoring on its best.

JW ANDERSON

Elements and styling from the Middle East with a JW Anderson twist.

JACQUEMUS

The French designer celebated the 10th anniversary fo his brand and the show was definitely one of our favourites. The collection was colourful and sexy all the way.

Dries Van Noten

Floral and animal prints with strong army elements and extreme styling.

BALMAIN

Olivier Rousteing is finally back showcasing a refined, colourful collection. We loved the strong tailoring elements.

Versace SS20: Neon and Punk influences during Milan Fashion Week.

Neon hairstyles and codes punk influences on styling were the highlights of the Versace spring/summer 2020 show in Milan.

Donatella chose to pay tribute to her friend Keith Flint for that show. From the flowery set with flamboyant prints, to the casting of tops here is all you need to remember:

photography: vogue.com

MSGM: TheSS20 show at Pitti Uomo

MSGM has revealed its 10th anniversary collection in Florence, during Pitti Uomo.

Camp collar shirts in lobster, poppy, or bandana paisley prints were mashed against pants and track jackets in lividly clashing two-tone leopard print. Sebago boat shoes and linen blousons and shorts featured naive graphics and heartfelt scrawled messages of summer love. A collaboration with the painter Norbert Bisky produced an attractive fractured portrait used as prints on shirting, shorts, and perforated nylon vests or in panels on the tailoring.



London Fashion Week Men's: The SS20 Highlights

London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.

Alexander McQueen: with SS20 presentation at #LFWM

Classic & Classy Oliver Spencer

Per Götesson: 3D Romance and Simplicity

Chalayan: Loving stripes and the new tailoring

Robyn Lynch for FASHION EAST: Pastels & Super Shorts

Mowalola for FASHION EAST: ‘Vampire’ is the new trend

Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

Isabel Marant Men: All the new silhouettes for AW 2019-2020

Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.

source: vogue hommes

Dior Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Kim Jones did it again… and we loved every single look of this new DIOR Men collection for autumn/winter 2019 -2020.

He offered a remarkably refined vision of modern masculinity and here are some higlights to note before you check out the new collection:

  • After the enormous floral effigy of Monsieur Dior created by KAWS and the 39-foot tall Hajime Sorayama robot, this season he staged the show On A Conveyor Belt.

  • The Clothes Offered A Modern Vision Of Elegance.

  • The animal print will be the new men’s essential.

  • Raymond Pettibon Offered Up Punk Couture

“This time I wanted the clothes to be the statues,” said Kim Jones

source: vogue.co.uk

Kris van Assche’s debut at Berluti during Paris Fashion Week.

It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”


Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:

  • Scarlet - Hot Pink combination

  • Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)

  • Overcoats will always be … grey

  • Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.

  • Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.

Dries Van Noten AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.

There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.

source: vogue.com

Milan Fashion Week: Versace Men AW19

Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.

The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.

The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 1 HIGHLIGHTS

The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:

Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.

BOBBY ABLEY

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.

ICEBERG:

90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:

Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.

Qasimi:

Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.

Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.

Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY