Paris Fashion Week Men's: Our favourites for SS 20

Paris Fashion Week Men’s has now ended and here are our favourite shows and designers for spring/summer 2020:

DIOR

Classic and classy with modern aesthetic and the new tailoring on its best.

JW ANDERSON

Elements and styling from the Middle East with a JW Anderson twist.

JACQUEMUS

The French designer celebated the 10th anniversary fo his brand and the show was definitely one of our favourites. The collection was colourful and sexy all the way.

Dries Van Noten

Floral and animal prints with strong army elements and extreme styling.

BALMAIN

Olivier Rousteing is finally back showcasing a refined, colourful collection. We loved the strong tailoring elements.

LOEWE Men's Spring Summer 2019

The Spanish Fashion house has presented its men’s spring/summer 2019 collection designed by Jonathan Anderson.

The collection was presented in the LOEWE headquarters on Place Saint-Sulpice in Paris, where the space was transformed into a naïve playground featuring images from the house’s latest printed publication shot by American art photographer Duane Michals.

LOEWE’s new menswear collection flits across time and space to illicit a boyish study of dressing up – where childhood memories haze with botanical and geometric motifs like sea urchins and stained glass, cowri shells and whelks, bandanas, and mythological lions.

Tom Ford SS19 Preview

Tom Ford has suddenly presented a preview of his SS19 menswear collection on Instagram during Paris Fashion Week shocking the fashion world with the unexpected posts. 

The designer shared a selection of looks focusing on details of the collection and the styling for SS19. Captured on Polaroid, the men’s collection features sophisticated suiting, luxurious outerwear, and lounge wear.

Thom Browne Fall 2018: a statement show to remember

Androgynous looks and grey flannel for women; pants down, heels and puppy heads for men. 

A runway which looked like an art studio and “Lady painters painting portraits of ladies, in grey flannel.”  Models styled with androgynous outfits and with hair inspired from 18th century French aristocracy strolled along the runway, taking up positions for the painters while Madonna's 'Vogue' was the main soundtrack of the show. 

For the second and main part of the show, models walked wearing deconstructed outfits, all in the 'fifty shades of grey' flannel Some remind us men's office clothes, some others school uniform and the hero pieces are definitely statements inspired by the same century. 

Half dresses combined with others, skirts as tops and the opposite were some of the highlights.

And as a conclusion the most powerful statement of all: male models wearing grey dog head masks and heels walked out, all harnessed, followed by Grace Bol, the South Sundanese model holding their leashes and wearing a ball gown.

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Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga AW18

Words by Stephen George

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.

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The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.

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For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.

Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit. 

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Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.

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Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.

The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food

; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.

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For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.

Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow. 
 

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Maison Margiela Men's AW18: Watch the full show from Paris Fashion Week

Discover highlights from the Autumn-Winter 2018  Maison Margiela Men’s Collection presented yesterday evening as part of Paris Fashion Week.

In his first menswear collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour. interpretations of tailored pieces revitalize the classic form of menswear silhouettes.

Paris Fashion Week: Valentino AW18

Maison Valentino unveiled its AW18/19 collection during Paris Fashion Week which marked a new era for the legendary fashion brand.

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Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive runs through the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli leading the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine.

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The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base. The short bomber, the down jackets with an oversize VLTN logo created in collaboration with Moncler are paired with nylon messenger bags and the white sneakers becoming elements of a revised urban repertoire.

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