Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

Isabel Marant Men: All the new silhouettes for AW 2019-2020

Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.

source: vogue hommes

Kris van Assche’s debut at Berluti during Paris Fashion Week.

It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”


Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:

  • Scarlet - Hot Pink combination

  • Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)

  • Overcoats will always be … grey

  • Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.

  • Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.

Dries Van Noten AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.

There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.

source: vogue.com

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 1 HIGHLIGHTS

The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:

Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.

BOBBY ABLEY

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.

ICEBERG:

90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:

Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.

Qasimi:

Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.

Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.

Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY




Paris Fashion Week Men's:Kim Jones' debut with Dior Homme SS19

Kim Jones made his debut in Paris on Saturday afternoon as artistic director for Dior Men, the rechristened Dior Homme, completing the changing of the guard for the spring/summer 2019 season. In a tribute to Dior and to his own heritage, Jones invited Prince Nikolai of Denmark to start the show.

The British designer mined the Dior archive for inspiration to pay tribute to the man who established the fabled brand in 1946.This aesthetic approach lends itself to a softer, more relaxed Dior Men than we are used to seeing. 

Dior Homme SS19 has streetwear touches and elements but Jones moved away from the huge trend, offering to the audience pure tailoring luxury. “I’ve moved away from that a bit,” he explained. “[That’s] easy modern menswear; this is a lot more elegant and sophisticated and a little bit romantic too, which is what Dior is.”

source: guardian.com

London Fashion Week Men's AW18 - REVIEW

Words by Stephen George

The schedule’s short! Menswear is in turmoil!! Fashion week is falling apart at the seams!!! THE BEES ARE DISAPPEARING!!!! The bees disappearing have nothing to do with fashion week but they do share something in common – they represent the current state of the (fashion) industry today. 

We’ve seen the schedules become tighter and smaller - London Fashion Week: Mens neé London Collections: Men was the caped crusader of menswear; at one point spanning five days has been reduced to 3 days for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season. Gone are the big hitters – Burberry, J.W. Anderson who have now chosen to follow the same model as Gucci and Balenciaga to show their men’s and women’s collections together. Additionally fashion darling Martine Rose and stalwart are also absent from the schedule.

All together these changes and absences led to a very underwhelming season with a few notable highlights and moments of genius. One plus side of having a very skimpy and light fashion week schedule it makes designers present some of their best work but also the crowd is on high alert for something brilliant and beautiful to come down the runway and take their breath away. For a moment when the hairs on the back of your neck stand up and you put away your phone and enjoy what is being shown in front of you.

John Lawrence Sullivan AW18

John Lawrence Sullivan AW18

John Lawrence Sullivan kicked off the first day of London Fashion Week: Mens by presenting a collection drawing its inspiration from psychopathic thriller movies like Scorsese’s Taxi Driver and Lynch’s Twin Peaks. The Arashi Yanagawa translated this in looks that featured indigo blue jeans mixed with black leather on the legs, worn leather gilets and jackets that tied on the sides like straight jackets. Yanagawa expanded on his signature palette of black and grey with licks of lavender purples and emerald greens. Plaid printed coats and a leopard print overcoat riffed on Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent which played into the cowboy western theme. John Lawrence Sullivan is what Vetements wants to be but more authentic and less consumer and appealing to the masses.


The spaghetti western American cowboy inspiration was evident at Astrid Andersen. Despite not being alive for the Buffalo movement she managed to captured and replicate the look with a modern, street wear edge that her brand has been founded on.
All the Andersen signatures were there – lace and logo t-shirts and hoodies, ornate and check printed baggy trousers and shorts sent out to a hip-hop soundtrack and Nike trainers. She added the Buffalo spirit through accessorising looks with Stetson hats, lashings of tweed and shaggy wool.


The standout of day two came at the end of day two from Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy. Charles Jeffrey is currently riding a momentous career wave. Hailed as London’s contemporary Galliano for this generation he’s coming off the back of winning the award for Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards last month presented by John Galliano himself. He was one of highlights of the MAN show for the three seasons he showed before going it alone. Since then he’s gone from strength to strength with a team comprising of the infamous Gary Card. He’s managed to bring the young gay community collectively together, gave them a space to bring their theatre, drama and performance back to fashion shows, educated the young and unwashed about club kid culture but through it all manage to put a grin on the coldest hearted individual in the room.

Charles Jeffrey AW18

Charles Jeffrey AW18

Jeffrey’s shows have a way of transporting you to another place and making you feel some kind of emotion – this year it was anger and fear. Waiting for the show to start figures dressed in dirty, dusty clothes and chalky white faces came out and began screaming; a woman sat next to me jumped out her skin. No one expected it and for over 10 minutes these figures roamed around the runway screaming and yelling at each other and at guests as they were being seated. Like angry, disgruntle toddlers they threw a tantrum! 


When the show started it kicked off with a live band playing a heavy rock version of The Prodigy’s Firestarter instantly transporting us back to the angsty moody teenagers blaring this song out of our bedrooms angry at the world for no reason. As the drums kicked in and heartbeats raced the face model pounded down the runway in a moth eaten double-breasted navy suit fastened with an oversized safety pin – the most wearable look of the collection. Other looks featured an red and blue argyle sweater ballooned and cinched at the waist and a graffiti swiggle print logo long sleeved tee shirt and high waisted light blue trousers with red side stripe on a male model who’s face was painted to resemble Naomi Campbell and a strut to match. The whole time the figures from earlier berate, applaud and react as they walk past.
New to Jeffrey’s vocabulary was the inclusion of tartan midi length skirt suit cinched at the waist and flared at the knee with beret to match or the long length tartan jacket with cropped trouser. All of which were inspired by Jeffrey’s trip to his hometown in Scotland and his Scottish heritage.

Liam Hodges AW18

Liam Hodges AW18

This feeling of grunge and the 90s rave culture was evident at Liam Hodges. Styled with cartoon flora green hair and extreme makeup featuring X’s on the eyes and a downturned smile on the lips of some of the models. Models took to the checkerboard runway in cartoon graphics of daisies and ghosts t-shirts layered over thin black and white striped long sleeved t-shirts, bleached striped denim matching jacket and trousers complete with FILA sneaker-boots. Hodges drove home his message of youth and enjoying it while it lasted with a finale that had Baz Luhrman’s Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen).

 ‘Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth
oh nevermind;
you will not understand the power and beauty of your youth until they have faded.
But trust me, in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself
And recall in a way you can’t grasp now how the possibility lay before
you and how fabulous you really looked…’


London Fashion Week: Mens a few years later; older and wiser still manages to intrigue, entertain and tug at the heart strings.