For the last time, Christopher Bailey presented his collection for Burberry AW18 in a show entitled Time. Held in the historical venue of the Dimco Buildings in West London, guests were met with an experience of past, present and future.
The show was dedicated to LGBTQ+ organisations, with the brand donating to three charities. It was certainly a moment of pride for Bailey, much like every aspect of the show championing the six colours of the Pride flag. The rainbow – a symbol of hope, happiness and inclusivity featured heavily throughout the show, whether it be from the reinvented check now incorporated with the colours (the Rainbow check), or Cara Delevingne’s floor-length cloak which she swept and swayed along the runway. The bright stripes appeared on sweaters, gilets and down one side of the oversized maxi skirt of Adwoa Aboah.
ORGANIC and wearable were words that came to mind when linen and natural fibres featured in JW Anderson’s LFW AW18 collection. Combining his male and female looks into one show was a new venture for Anderson but a venture that was worth it
Pleated chiffon, woven accessories, bunched collars, fun colourful paisley, and pom poms all appeared on the runway. From heavy knit to neon trainers with furry laces, the collection was making a bold and complex statement. With Anderson’s own art collection and Martin Belou’s sprouting fungi tubes as centrepiece installations dotted across the catwalk, the relationship between art and the natural world was considered.
The American designer showed his first menswear runway collection in New York and we loved every single piece.
After a lot of menswear presentations in the past, Tom Ford has presented his first menswear show during New York Fashion Week. The show was so 'on point' and the designer gave us a taste from all the styles and pieces. Alongside snakeskin trousers and matching cowboy boots, pearlescent tailoring and sateen biker trousers, Ford shook things up with tassel loafers finished with chunky sneaker soles, a lemon-yellow hoodie (a Tom Ford hoodie? Yes, please) and a hefty python-print puffer jacket.
The classic tailoring pieces and simple overcoats are the brand's hero pieces so they were a strong element as well.
At the end of the show six-pack models walked in branded underwear and we have already chosen our favourite.
CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC global spring summer 2018 campaign featuring the collection designed by label’s Chief Creative Office RAF SIMONS is out now.
After the much talked about Kardashian-Jenner featured underwear ads, the denim empire has released its fashion campaign starring a slew of promising models on the scene. Models are posing in a barnyard themed shoot for label’s regular fashion photographer Willy Vanderperre.
Paris Fashion Week Men's has officially finished. Before all the eyes turn in Women's fashion weeks we are sharing with you the best street style inspirations straight from Paris and Paris Fashion Week Men's.
Photography : Antoine Perret
Discover highlights from the Autumn-Winter 2018 Maison Margiela Men’s Collection presented yesterday evening as part of Paris Fashion Week.
In his first menswear collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour. interpretations of tailored pieces revitalize the classic form of menswear silhouettes.
Just before saying 'goodbye' to this seasons' Men's Fashion Weeks, we stopped by Milan to refresh your mind with some of the legendary brands and collections. Milan had one of its most notable men fashion shows this season and we chose our favourites to share with you.
One of my favourite set up and Venues. Low lighting and mirror columns in the runway gave the illusion that you were watching the show through a mirror.The collection consisted of three main colours black , blue and military green.
The whole vibe was more on the military side with army cut jackets and coats. My favorite look is definitely this turtle neck knit jumper paired with blue leather trousers.
This is one of my favourite Versace collections to date. Maximalism at its finest and a collection full of bold prints -what else of course- .
This season the legendary brand drawn inspiration from its own house as Donatella showcased archive prints and pieces combined with the brand new ones, paying tribute to her brother Gianni Versace. The medusa logo was printed into rich gold silk and paired with plenty of tartan created amazing visuals.
My favorite look - this pinned striped blazer paired with an oversized v neck a scarf ,pvc looking trousers and Versace’s own take on dad sneakers.
With a set design to look like an airport the models arrived on the catwalk waiting to claim their luggages. For the third collection in a row, Venturini Fendi collaborated with an artist and the result was remarkable.
This season’s new arrival was Glaswegian graphic specialist Reilly, who Venturini Fendi first followed on Instagram after he posted a casually conceived logo clash with her house and Fila. “I thought, Uh oh, I’m going to get sued!” Reilly reported. Instead he was backstage in a raffia-fringed Fendi parka watching his capsule collection of T-shirts and collage-print mainline pieces traveling the runway.
The iconic FF print appeared on shearling-edged, diagonal quilt technical wear and accessories including the hands-free, headstrap-attached mini umbrellas that were among the coolest accessories in a collection packed to bursting with finery, flair, and wit.
Favourite look: The logo faux (?) fur jacket with matching gloves and man bag.
The MSGM collection was presented on real Italian students rather than models . Giorgetti worked on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes and this season he added a ‘community-versus-individuality’ dynamic; which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves with...
The designer gave to the looks a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained.
These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel.
Favorite look: Satin tshirt and striped jogger trousers.
Words: Elias Ttiggis
A first glimpse at Louis Vuitton Men's Fall Winter 2018 Fashion Show by Kim Jones.
After 7 years at Louis Vuitton Kim Jones stepped down from his role as Men’s Artistic Director and the finale was remarkable.
The designer presented a collection rich in sportswear references including a series of jersey tops and parkas finished with dramatic crater prints, crocodile backpacks and double-faced cashmere baseball tops.
The nomadic mood, rodeo inspired flankman-shorts, the intarsia mink coats from Russia and Siberia and a 'greatest hits' o previous LV collections; were all there.
The finale was the perfect conclusion to Jones' incredible fashion journey with Louis Vuitton. His last time on LV runway was along with the super models Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.
Maison Valentino unveiled its AW18/19 collection during Paris Fashion Week which marked a new era for the legendary fashion brand.
Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive runs through the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli leading the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine.
The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base. The short bomber, the down jackets with an oversize VLTN logo created in collaboration with Moncler are paired with nylon messenger bags and the white sneakers becoming elements of a revised urban repertoire.
Dandy Detour: Menswear Collection Autumn Winter 2018/19
Etro Dandy invites you into his home on a journey through his private life and collected memories.
Fine suiting is front and center for the occasion. Checks, paisley prints, and more decorate an amazing selection of pieces.
The regal presentation took place in t Palazzo del Ghiaccio during Milan Fashion Week.
Usually the first thing we all splurged on us in the morning, after shower or in a store, is our favorite fragrance. Of course there are a ton of fragrances out there that are popular for both men and women. However, we’ve compiled a list of unique, unisex and most importantly one of a kind smells for you to try next time you’re on a hunt for a fragrance.
Maison Margiela –Replica Fragrances
The Replica fragrances come in Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum. There is also the filter fragrances a sort of layering scent and the untitled fragrance. The basis for all the Replica fragrances is that they replicate a memory essentially, like their scent Flower Market or Beach Walk. I find that most of these smells do evoke a familiar scent however only a few of them truly stand out. Personally my favorite is the Eau de Toilette –by the Fireplace, described as burning wood and chestnut.
This scent has a beautiful depth of woody smell with a slightly sweet top note. Definitely a winter/autumn scent. Another favorite from the replica range is Jazz Club described as heady cocktails and cigars, this is a more citrusy smell than -by the Fireplace but it lacks that sweet note.
Escentric molecules-Molecule fragrances
Originally this line had launched with Molecule 01 the most popular and my favorite of the bunch. The fragrances are based around a single ingredient, which reacts with your natural pheromones giving out a unique “tailored” made scent. Even if I tried I cannot accurately describe this scent, however is a beautiful unisex scent and a decent price point.
Jo Malone- Cologne & Intense
Jo Malone has over 20 scents of beautiful fragrances with botanical, citrus and other accents. I cannot really recommend just one since I think they are peculiar scents and each is special in its own way. Wood sage and sea salt is an easy going woody scent whereas Oud & Bergamont is deep, citrusy and more pronounced. When it comes to Jo Malone, definitely visit a counter and pick a scent that is personal to you.
Jeremy Scott amazed the fashion world during Milan Fashion Week as his new AW18 collection for MOSCHINO was the biggest fashion highlight during the weekend.
The collection was a mixture of Pre Fall and FALL for 2018-2019 and we have seen both menswear and womenswear collections on the runway. The mixture between the two was the key for the collection as the designer mixed masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way.
Two became one as we had overt dress codes of gender as well. Pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him
Watch the runway show here:
Words by Stephen George
The schedule’s short! Menswear is in turmoil!! Fashion week is falling apart at the seams!!! THE BEES ARE DISAPPEARING!!!! The bees disappearing have nothing to do with fashion week but they do share something in common – they represent the current state of the (fashion) industry today.
We’ve seen the schedules become tighter and smaller - London Fashion Week: Mens neé London Collections: Men was the caped crusader of menswear; at one point spanning five days has been reduced to 3 days for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season. Gone are the big hitters – Burberry, J.W. Anderson who have now chosen to follow the same model as Gucci and Balenciaga to show their men’s and women’s collections together. Additionally fashion darling Martine Rose and stalwart are also absent from the schedule.
All together these changes and absences led to a very underwhelming season with a few notable highlights and moments of genius. One plus side of having a very skimpy and light fashion week schedule it makes designers present some of their best work but also the crowd is on high alert for something brilliant and beautiful to come down the runway and take their breath away. For a moment when the hairs on the back of your neck stand up and you put away your phone and enjoy what is being shown in front of you.
John Lawrence Sullivan kicked off the first day of London Fashion Week: Mens by presenting a collection drawing its inspiration from psychopathic thriller movies like Scorsese’s Taxi Driver and Lynch’s Twin Peaks. The Arashi Yanagawa translated this in looks that featured indigo blue jeans mixed with black leather on the legs, worn leather gilets and jackets that tied on the sides like straight jackets. Yanagawa expanded on his signature palette of black and grey with licks of lavender purples and emerald greens. Plaid printed coats and a leopard print overcoat riffed on Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent which played into the cowboy western theme. John Lawrence Sullivan is what Vetements wants to be but more authentic and less consumer and appealing to the masses.
The spaghetti western American cowboy inspiration was evident at Astrid Andersen. Despite not being alive for the Buffalo movement she managed to captured and replicate the look with a modern, street wear edge that her brand has been founded on.
All the Andersen signatures were there – lace and logo t-shirts and hoodies, ornate and check printed baggy trousers and shorts sent out to a hip-hop soundtrack and Nike trainers. She added the Buffalo spirit through accessorising looks with Stetson hats, lashings of tweed and shaggy wool.
The standout of day two came at the end of day two from Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy. Charles Jeffrey is currently riding a momentous career wave. Hailed as London’s contemporary Galliano for this generation he’s coming off the back of winning the award for Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards last month presented by John Galliano himself. He was one of highlights of the MAN show for the three seasons he showed before going it alone. Since then he’s gone from strength to strength with a team comprising of the infamous Gary Card. He’s managed to bring the young gay community collectively together, gave them a space to bring their theatre, drama and performance back to fashion shows, educated the young and unwashed about club kid culture but through it all manage to put a grin on the coldest hearted individual in the room.
Jeffrey’s shows have a way of transporting you to another place and making you feel some kind of emotion – this year it was anger and fear. Waiting for the show to start figures dressed in dirty, dusty clothes and chalky white faces came out and began screaming; a woman sat next to me jumped out her skin. No one expected it and for over 10 minutes these figures roamed around the runway screaming and yelling at each other and at guests as they were being seated. Like angry, disgruntle toddlers they threw a tantrum!
When the show started it kicked off with a live band playing a heavy rock version of The Prodigy’s Firestarter instantly transporting us back to the angsty moody teenagers blaring this song out of our bedrooms angry at the world for no reason. As the drums kicked in and heartbeats raced the face model pounded down the runway in a moth eaten double-breasted navy suit fastened with an oversized safety pin – the most wearable look of the collection. Other looks featured an red and blue argyle sweater ballooned and cinched at the waist and a graffiti swiggle print logo long sleeved tee shirt and high waisted light blue trousers with red side stripe on a male model who’s face was painted to resemble Naomi Campbell and a strut to match. The whole time the figures from earlier berate, applaud and react as they walk past.
New to Jeffrey’s vocabulary was the inclusion of tartan midi length skirt suit cinched at the waist and flared at the knee with beret to match or the long length tartan jacket with cropped trouser. All of which were inspired by Jeffrey’s trip to his hometown in Scotland and his Scottish heritage.
This feeling of grunge and the 90s rave culture was evident at Liam Hodges. Styled with cartoon flora green hair and extreme makeup featuring X’s on the eyes and a downturned smile on the lips of some of the models. Models took to the checkerboard runway in cartoon graphics of daisies and ghosts t-shirts layered over thin black and white striped long sleeved t-shirts, bleached striped denim matching jacket and trousers complete with FILA sneaker-boots. Hodges drove home his message of youth and enjoying it while it lasted with a finale that had Baz Luhrman’s Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen).
‘Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth
you will not understand the power and beauty of your youth until they have faded.
But trust me, in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself
And recall in a way you can’t grasp now how the possibility lay before
you and how fabulous you really looked…’
London Fashion Week: Mens a few years later; older and wiser still manages to intrigue, entertain and tug at the heart strings.
The fashion caravan has already trundled off to Milan, but before we take a small break from our reports from Milan, here are a few parting words on some of the last day's highlights and shows.
For AW18 Blood Brother takes a look into the Instant Win, Instant Lifestyle promised to us by the omnipotent force that is Camelot & The National Lottery.
Graphic prints continue to be a key feature of the Blood Brother style and with tracksuit on its best his AW18 show was the ideal proposal for the sartorial streetwear aesthetic.
The tailoring details were notable in the biggest part of the collection elevating the looks resulting the sartorial streetwear.
A collision of elevated streetwear, traditional Korean silhouettes and Western tailoring, the Autumn Winter 18 collection sees Kang.D work mostly in dark velvets and rich, tactile wools, also introducing jacquards.
Only black and white fabrics can be found in the Autumn Winter 18 collection, resulting in a shadowplay of light and dark, opposing forces and natures.
Singer Kill A Son opened the Bobby Abley AW18 show which was the last one for this fashion week.
Intense colours and playful combinations on the runway with Looney Tunes and the heroes of Warner Bros to be the protagonists on the bold prints.
The designer managed to create a different world on the runway- Bobbyland; where everyone is Welcome.
After four cold days of catwalk shows, presentations and parties, that’s it for London Fashion Week Men’s for another six months. Everything you have seen, won't be out until August-September 2018, even though photographer Marc-Henri Ngandu captured some of the most interesting styling bits for you. Street Style will always be the biggest source of inspiration when it comes to styling and fashion so feel free to adopt the elements you loved to your personal style.
Photographer: Marc-Henri Ngandu