Paris Fashion Week Men’s has now ended and here are our favourite shows and designers for spring/summer 2020:
Classic and classy with modern aesthetic and the new tailoring on its best.
Elements and styling from the Middle East with a JW Anderson twist.
The French designer celebated the 10th anniversary fo his brand and the show was definitely one of our favourites. The collection was colourful and sexy all the way.
Dries Van Noten
Floral and animal prints with strong army elements and extreme styling.
Olivier Rousteing is finally back showcasing a refined, colourful collection. We loved the strong tailoring elements.
“Menswear is a detail-driven business,” says Mr Tom Ford, who introduces his SS19 men underwear campaign in the fashion market.
Made in Italy from breathable stretch-cotton and have a close-fitting, supportive profile and comfortable logo waistband.
Tom Ford Underwear Spring Summer 2019 campaign, photographed by Ferry van der Nat
Maison Margiela AW19 offered up an antidote to digital overload.
John Galliano presented the latest collection for his band of ‘digital nomads’ and we love every single piece of it.
The show was on the tittles of every fashion site and magazine and here are the key elements of the Maison Margiela AW19 by John Galliano.
It was darker than the previous collection but the blalck gave space to the most colourful (neon) pieces to shine.
Painted hair, make up on men’s eyes, feathers and elements from the ‘Swan Lake’
Extra wide shoulders wih triangle shapes on the outerwear and belts as the main accessories completed the styling.
The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:
Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.
For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.
90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:
Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.
Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.
Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.
Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
Watching Prada Men Spring Summer 2019 show we have noted a lot of looks that we dream about for ourselves.
We’re talking super short shorts, retro tone-on-tone belts, big puffy hats and a really nice set of bags… but what about those ‘super mini’ shorts?
Inspired by 70s and designed with patterns and colours from the 90s, the new trend proposal from Prada seems to be quite sexy and unusual at the the same time for the men’s world.
Muccia Prada used the words “more elegant” when describing how she wanted her men to look and she definitely achieved it.
I am already in love with those burgundy silky short shorts! What do you think about the new trend?
Cool, everyday pieces with street style aesthetic that we all love but with a contemporary twist.
Saint Laurent Backpack
Lauded for its precise tailoring and innately cool aesthetic, Saint Laurent brings together classic and modern design aesthetics. The City backpack embodies this, adorning the supple canvas construction simply with subtle leather detailing, while the large proportions provide ample room for essentials. Available on ysl.com
Tour merch is no longer that one-off T-shirt you bought in a love frenzy of the band directly post-gig. Nowadays it’s a fashion-focussed affair curated to fit into your personal style. Newly versed in irony, Gucci takes on the trend for SS18, typing out its brand name in exaggerated font on this cotton-jersey T-shirt and underscoring it with a selection of locations. It’s a Gucci gig, and you’re invited. Available on gucci.com
Kappa Kontroll jersey shorts
Talk about a throwback! Kappa Kontroll is back and in a big way. We have fashion’s love affair with the 1990s to thank for that. The revival has a few tweaks mind you. The iconic mirrored man moniker is flipped upside down, and it’s placed in sequence as a side stripe down these jersey shorts. Available on selfridges.com
Givenchy classic shorts
Yes, there were a lot of short shorts on the SS18 catwalks, but if you’re sceptical about that translating to skimpy, fear not. As Givenchy - available on selfridges.com
Sandro Paris Denim Jacket
Denim jackets have pretty much made their way up through the ranks to achieve a 'basics' status that rivals the much-loved leather jacket. Sandro’s iteration leaves buttons in the past in favour of clean and sleek popper fastenings... and yes we go pink! Available on sandro-paris.com
JW Anderson Knot Tee
The knotted sleeve is a small design tweak but it’s come to symbolise the nonchalance and raw creativity of J.W. Anderson’s work. Not to mention those maritime references and they’re rife in this cotton-jersey T-shirt. Available on j-w-anderson.com
BLOOD BROTHER track pants
There’s one thing we can take solace in, and it’s the return of the tracksuit. Comfy enough to contain any wider woes, these sports-jersey BLOOD BROTHER track pants are designed with the classic drawstring waist and branded trims spanning the legs and they are our favourites. Available on selfridges.com
Gloverall Denim Jacket
Another Denim jacket with a twist. Taking its influence from the classic 4-pocket work jacket, this new style for SS18 is reimagined in raw denim for Goverall's first ever denim outerwear collection. Available on gloverall.com
Ted Baker Backpack
At the forefront of contemporary British fashion, Ted Baker extends its clean-cut silhouettes and meticulous attention to detail to a collection of premium accessories. Defined by its athletic-inspired rubber design and emblazoned with the signature branding, this yellow bag can easily be combined with every look. Available on tedbaker.com
Maison Margiela track pants
Maison Margiela’s experimental aesthetic aligns perfectly with the undone appeal of today’s athleisure obsession. Track pants anchor the look and this pair goes above and beyond the expected - available on selfridges.com
Words by Stephen George
It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.
The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.
For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.
Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit.
Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.
Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.
The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food
; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.
For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.
Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow.
Discover highlights from the Autumn-Winter 2018 Maison Margiela Men’s Collection presented yesterday evening as part of Paris Fashion Week.
In his first menswear collection at Maison Margiela, creative director John Galliano joins together classic symbols of the men’s wardrobe by applying past and present house ideas into one forward proposal for a new glamour. interpretations of tailored pieces revitalize the classic form of menswear silhouettes.
Maison Valentino unveiled its AW18/19 collection during Paris Fashion Week which marked a new era for the legendary fashion brand.
Animal intarsia from the Valentino archive runs through the Men’s Fall/Winter 2018-19 Collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli leading the savoir faire Couture in the everyday routine.
The coat as a cover, the tracksuit as the new suit, the blouse as a base. The short bomber, the down jackets with an oversize VLTN logo created in collaboration with Moncler are paired with nylon messenger bags and the white sneakers becoming elements of a revised urban repertoire.