Riccardo Tisci unveiled the first part of his Fall/Winter 2019 campaign for Burberry, featuring Burberry enlists Finn Rosseel and Maxwell Annoh shot by Danko Steiner.
Neon hairstyles and codes punk influences on styling were the highlights of the Versace spring/summer 2020 show in Milan.
Donatella chose to pay tribute to her friend Keith Flint for that show. From the flowery set with flamboyant prints, to the casting of tops here is all you need to remember:
It is on a paradisiacal beach of Malibu that Anthony Vaccarello has just unveiled his man parade spring-summer 2020. Incredible set, inspirations landed in Marrakech, tribute to Yves Saint Laurent ... Here is all that was needed of this California show..
THE SET: the Malibu beach side in Los Angeles
THE INSPIRATION: Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent with the styling between Malibu and Marrakech.
THE TRENDS PROPOSAL: Fluidity, freedom and comfort. At a time when the trend is streetwear, Anthony Vaccarello abandons it and he propose his new tailoring.
#PradaSS20 Menswear was shown in Shanghai at the Silo Hall of Minsheng Wharf. An arrangement of neon lights outlines the industrial form language of the hall, enhancing the intricate geometries, generating a glowing enfilade that shimmers in subtle pastel colors.
n his debut show for Celine – now sans accent – in September, Hedi Slimane made it more than clear what his intentions are for the house. If anyone thought that some of the reactions to that show would have an effect on his vision, his first men’s show for Celine spelled out a big fat – or indeed very, very skinny – no. In fashion, as in life, there are certain forces that will make themselves heard. Slimane is one of them. He believes in his own vision to its utmost core: from the mechanical light installation that fanfares every show (this time it was a huge geometric ball) to the stick thin models that walk his runway (a new one turns 18 every minute), to the emerging rock bands that score his collections (the irreverently named Crack Cloud), and the vintage-inspired aesthetic that embodies his garments. No matter how deep you search, the ultimate proposal of any of his collections – and indeed the one he showed on Sunday night – is in essence the brand of Hedi Slimane.
Seasonal collections, however, are put in the world to propose something new for the immediate future. So how do you, as an observer of such collections, approach the work of a designer, who believes so strongly in a consistent point of view? You could read into Sunday evening’s Celine collection and say that it proposed a more cropped and roomier tailored trouser, or that its suiting evoked the tie-wearing Patrick Bateman yuppie dad tailoring of 1980s’ Valentino; only cut for a much, much skinnier frame. You could talk about the glitter and sequinned pieces, which were no doubt of a notable artisanal value. Or you could point out the obvious nostalgia – or was it wistfulness – that existed within the collection for the mid-2000s when indie music culture was at its high and everyone looked like the boys, who walked the 2019 Celine runway. What has to be stated – for the sake of the history books – is that Celine menswear, which didn’t exist under Slimane’s predecessor Phoebe Philo, was brought into the world looking like this.
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Kim Jones did it again… and we loved every single look of this new DIOR Men collection for autumn/winter 2019 -2020.
He offered a remarkably refined vision of modern masculinity and here are some higlights to note before you check out the new collection:
After the enormous floral effigy of Monsieur Dior created by KAWS and the 39-foot tall Hajime Sorayama robot, this season he staged the show On A Conveyor Belt.
The Clothes Offered A Modern Vision Of Elegance.
The animal print will be the new men’s essential.
Raymond Pettibon Offered Up Punk Couture
“This time I wanted the clothes to be the statues,” said Kim Jones
Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright - again. Another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' and attract the international media with their work.
Three days full of shows, presentations and parties…. and before Milan Fashion Week here are the higlights from day 2 & 3.
Women presented menswear in Mullins’ AW19 show which was one of our favourites.
Mens pieces became Gender fluid in terms of styling with denim and tailoring being the key elements of the collection. The colour pallete consists of blue, yellow, oatmail and graphics in red and black details.
Mullins said his starting point for the lineup happened on his way home one night, when he saw woman getting out of a car wearing a yellow mohair scarf and a coat, except it turned out “it wasn’t yellow mohair, it was just her hair and her jacket was just a really s—t, old shirt.”
Streetwear meets luxury fashion in Astrid Andersen with blue, red and orange being the main colours of the AW19 collection. An exploration of the classic male silhouette and the pin stripe tracksuit, the Autumn/Winter designs are an ode to 1920s’ American fashion, a step away from the label’s previous inspirations. However, despite its new unexpected design, Andersen remains comfortably rooted in the materials used in even her earliest collections, in particular her signature combination of lace and fur.
In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring. The colour pallete was in soft tones with apricot, dusty lavender and off white being the main colours of the collection.
A very thughtful but playful collection which came from the future for the future. From prosthetics used on models from ‘alien’ eyes to bionic components the Xander Zhou AW19 was the favourite one on instagram.
The clothes were a beautiful paradox too – modern men accessorising with flippers and furry feeding bottles to engineers donning 70s-esque polonecks. The collection overall has a hopeful message, one of belonging. Accepting the ‘other’ is the future..
Eco-wools, tailored coats , utilitarian bomber jackets and velvet trousers were some of the statement pieces of the AW19 collection in OLIVER SPENCER show. The earth colours were on top with many blue tones too and the ‘eco-green’ on its best.
We loved the suits and all the tailoring he proposed like every season with the Royal Academy as the show venue being one of our fevourites this year.
FENG CHEN WANG
History and heritage permeates the AW19 FENG CHEN WANG collection through the symbolism, iconography and painting with brush strokes, turning her artistic ideas into design prints and forms. In a collection of 41 looks, Fend Chen Wang’s textures and palettes are as pure as the story their telling – from pale pastels to soft fabrics, there was bold tailoring to portray strength and oversized shapes to show creative power.
The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:
Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.
For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.
90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:
Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.
Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.
Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.
Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
Virgil Abloh has just unveiled the theme for his Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2018-19 show, which will be presented in Paris in January 2019: Michael Jackson.
The American designer has already demonstrated his admiration for pop culture icons through his own-label as seen at the Off-White Spring/Summer 2018 show which presented colorful pieces inspired by the late Diana, Princess of Wales. The graphic themes, a nod to American graffiti artist, Dondi White, seen in Abloh’s Off-White collection the following year also spring to mind.
January 2019 will see the theme continued as Abloh is to present his second menswear collection for Louis Vuitton in Paris which will pay homage to the King of pop, Michael Jackson. In an interview with Interview magazine, Abloh revealed that “when I have Michael singing in the background, it’s a different type of shirt, it’s a different kind of boot, it’s a different fit of pants. Music is key.” The American designer also revealed other news in announcing that he’d like to design a spaceship someday. Mr. Abloh, you never fail to surprise us…
source: vogue hommes
Anthony Vaccarello takes inspiration from 1970s New York for Saint Laurent's spring-summer 2019 collection.
In fact, the season brought the French fashion house close to the iconic city with a show at New Jersey's Liberty Park. Saint Laurent's rocker-chic aesthetic was once again front and center for the occasion.
Black skinny jeans and cigarette trousers accented leather detailed blazer, suede jackets, and more. Sequins and glittered embellishments added an androgynous attitude to the collection. Meanwhile, sheer tops, frail scarves, and tailored jackets brought home a Parisian spirit.
The show closed with shirtless male models that were clad in sequined pants and covered in glitter body paint. source: thefashionisto.com
When it comes to prints and colors, Alessandro Michele does not discriminate and the proof is in the designer's cruise 2019 collection for Gucci.
The Italian fashion house unveiled its latest range with a runway show in Arles, France. The Roman necropolis Alyscamps served as the setting for the occasion. Michele embraced a juxtaposition of his bold aesthetic with that of the gothic motif for the season.
Oversized coats, check trousers, floral print knitwear, pussy bow tops, relaxed shirts, belt bags, strapped sandals, sporty sneakers, and more contributed to the Gucci man's new wardrobe.
Androgynous looks and grey flannel for women; pants down, heels and puppy heads for men.
A runway which looked like an art studio and “Lady painters painting portraits of ladies, in grey flannel.” Models styled with androgynous outfits and with hair inspired from 18th century French aristocracy strolled along the runway, taking up positions for the painters while Madonna's 'Vogue' was the main soundtrack of the show.
For the second and main part of the show, models walked wearing deconstructed outfits, all in the 'fifty shades of grey' flannel Some remind us men's office clothes, some others school uniform and the hero pieces are definitely statements inspired by the same century.
Half dresses combined with others, skirts as tops and the opposite were some of the highlights.
And as a conclusion the most powerful statement of all: male models wearing grey dog head masks and heels walked out, all harnessed, followed by Grace Bol, the South Sundanese model holding their leashes and wearing a ball gown.
Just before saying 'goodbye' to this seasons' Men's Fashion Weeks, we stopped by Milan to refresh your mind with some of the legendary brands and collections. Milan had one of its most notable men fashion shows this season and we chose our favourites to share with you.
One of my favourite set up and Venues. Low lighting and mirror columns in the runway gave the illusion that you were watching the show through a mirror.The collection consisted of three main colours black , blue and military green.
The whole vibe was more on the military side with army cut jackets and coats. My favorite look is definitely this turtle neck knit jumper paired with blue leather trousers.
This is one of my favourite Versace collections to date. Maximalism at its finest and a collection full of bold prints -what else of course- .
This season the legendary brand drawn inspiration from its own house as Donatella showcased archive prints and pieces combined with the brand new ones, paying tribute to her brother Gianni Versace. The medusa logo was printed into rich gold silk and paired with plenty of tartan created amazing visuals.
My favorite look - this pinned striped blazer paired with an oversized v neck a scarf ,pvc looking trousers and Versace’s own take on dad sneakers.
With a set design to look like an airport the models arrived on the catwalk waiting to claim their luggages. For the third collection in a row, Venturini Fendi collaborated with an artist and the result was remarkable.
This season’s new arrival was Glaswegian graphic specialist Reilly, who Venturini Fendi first followed on Instagram after he posted a casually conceived logo clash with her house and Fila. “I thought, Uh oh, I’m going to get sued!” Reilly reported. Instead he was backstage in a raffia-fringed Fendi parka watching his capsule collection of T-shirts and collage-print mainline pieces traveling the runway.
The iconic FF print appeared on shearling-edged, diagonal quilt technical wear and accessories including the hands-free, headstrap-attached mini umbrellas that were among the coolest accessories in a collection packed to bursting with finery, flair, and wit.
Favourite look: The logo faux (?) fur jacket with matching gloves and man bag.
The MSGM collection was presented on real Italian students rather than models . Giorgetti worked on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes and this season he added a ‘community-versus-individuality’ dynamic; which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves with...
The designer gave to the looks a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained.
These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel.
Favorite look: Satin tshirt and striped jogger trousers.
Words: Elias Ttiggis