Paris Fashion Week Men's: Our favourites for SS 20

Paris Fashion Week Men’s has now ended and here are our favourite shows and designers for spring/summer 2020:

DIOR

Classic and classy with modern aesthetic and the new tailoring on its best.

JW ANDERSON

Elements and styling from the Middle East with a JW Anderson twist.

JACQUEMUS

The French designer celebated the 10th anniversary fo his brand and the show was definitely one of our favourites. The collection was colourful and sexy all the way.

Dries Van Noten

Floral and animal prints with strong army elements and extreme styling.

BALMAIN

Olivier Rousteing is finally back showcasing a refined, colourful collection. We loved the strong tailoring elements.

Versace SS20: Neon and Punk influences during Milan Fashion Week.

Neon hairstyles and codes punk influences on styling were the highlights of the Versace spring/summer 2020 show in Milan.

Donatella chose to pay tribute to her friend Keith Flint for that show. From the flowery set with flamboyant prints, to the casting of tops here is all you need to remember:

photography: vogue.com

Dolce & Gabbana Men: The SS20 show at Milan Fashion Week

That was a remarkable ‘‘comeback’’ show from the Italian fashion house.

We have seen a total resurrection of Dolce & Gabbana archival pieces included a loose armed, high-waisted, two top-cut pocketed leather jacket from 1991 that came in a direct reproduction of the original and variations painted with those quivering pin-ups.

Notable styling with outstaning mix and match comnbinations:

photogaphy: vogue.com

MSGM: TheSS20 show at Pitti Uomo

MSGM has revealed its 10th anniversary collection in Florence, during Pitti Uomo.

Camp collar shirts in lobster, poppy, or bandana paisley prints were mashed against pants and track jackets in lividly clashing two-tone leopard print. Sebago boat shoes and linen blousons and shorts featured naive graphics and heartfelt scrawled messages of summer love. A collaboration with the painter Norbert Bisky produced an attractive fractured portrait used as prints on shirting, shorts, and perforated nylon vests or in panels on the tailoring.



London Fashion Week Men's: The SS20 Highlights

London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.

Alexander McQueen: with SS20 presentation at #LFWM

Classic & Classy Oliver Spencer

Per Götesson: 3D Romance and Simplicity

Chalayan: Loving stripes and the new tailoring

Robyn Lynch for FASHION EAST: Pastels & Super Shorts

Mowalola for FASHION EAST: ‘Vampire’ is the new trend

Prada Men SS2020: Watch the show in Shanghai

#PradaSS20 Menswear was shown in Shanghai at the Silo Hall of Minsheng Wharf. An arrangement of neon lights outlines the industrial form language of the hall, enhancing the intricate geometries, generating a glowing enfilade that shimmers in subtle pastel colors.


Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

TOM FORD Men's AW19 at New York Fashion Week

“I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted after his show at the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday evening, the first of the ready-to-wear season. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beaten up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”

His AW19 collections consists of a sellection of rollencks, satins and tailoring on its best. Modern pieces with a nostalgic mood and minimal lines come to constrast with the very specific puffy jackets and coats.

Dior Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Kim Jones did it again… and we loved every single look of this new DIOR Men collection for autumn/winter 2019 -2020.

He offered a remarkably refined vision of modern masculinity and here are some higlights to note before you check out the new collection:

  • After the enormous floral effigy of Monsieur Dior created by KAWS and the 39-foot tall Hajime Sorayama robot, this season he staged the show On A Conveyor Belt.

  • The Clothes Offered A Modern Vision Of Elegance.

  • The animal print will be the new men’s essential.

  • Raymond Pettibon Offered Up Punk Couture

“This time I wanted the clothes to be the statues,” said Kim Jones

source: vogue.co.uk

Milan Fashion Week: Versace Men AW19

Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.

The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.

The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 2 & 3 HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright - again. Another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' and attract the international media with their work.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties…. and before Milan Fashion Week here are the higlights from day 2 & 3.

ALEX MULLINS

Women presented menswear in Mullins’ AW19 show which was one of our favourites.

Mens pieces became Gender fluid in terms of styling with denim and tailoring being the key elements of the collection. The colour pallete consists of blue, yellow, oatmail and graphics in red and black details.

Mullins said his starting point for the lineup happened on his way home one night, when he saw woman getting out of a car wearing a yellow mohair scarf and a coat, except it turned out “it wasn’t yellow mohair, it was just her hair and her jacket was just a really s—t, old shirt.”

ASTRID ANDERSEN

Streetwear meets luxury fashion in Astrid Andersen with blue, red and orange being the main colours of the AW19 collection. An exploration of the classic male silhouette and the pin stripe tracksuit, the Autumn/Winter designs are an ode to 1920s’ American fashion, a step away from the label’s previous inspirations. However, despite its new unexpected design, Andersen remains comfortably rooted in the materials used in even her earliest collections, in particular her signature combination of lace and fur.

PER GÖTESSON

In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring. The colour pallete was in soft tones with apricot, dusty lavender and off white being the main colours of the collection.

XANDER ZHOU

A very thughtful but playful collection which came from the future for the future. From prosthetics used on models from ‘alien’ eyes to bionic components the Xander Zhou AW19 was the favourite one on instagram.

The clothes were a beautiful paradox too – modern men accessorising with flippers and furry feeding bottles to engineers donning 70s-esque polonecks. The collection overall has a hopeful message, one of belonging. Accepting the ‘other’ is the future..

OLIVER SPENCER

Eco-wools, tailored coats , utilitarian bomber jackets and velvet trousers were some of the statement pieces of the AW19 collection in OLIVER SPENCER show. The earth colours were on top with many blue tones too and the ‘eco-green’ on its best.

We loved the suits and all the tailoring he proposed like every season with the Royal Academy as the show venue being one of our fevourites this year.

FENG CHEN WANG

History and heritage permeates the AW19 FENG CHEN WANG collection through the symbolism, iconography and painting with brush strokes, turning her artistic ideas into design prints and forms. In a collection of 41 looks, Fend Chen Wang’s textures and palettes are as pure as the story their telling – from pale pastels to soft fabrics, there was bold tailoring to portray strength and oversized shapes to show creative power.

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 1 HIGHLIGHTS

The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:

Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.

BOBBY ABLEY

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.

ICEBERG:

90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:

Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.

Qasimi:

Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.

Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.

Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY




5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

Saint Laurent SS19 at New York Fashion Week

Anthony Vaccarello takes inspiration from 1970s New York for Saint Laurent's spring-summer 2019 collection.

Saint-Laurent-Spring-Summer-2019-Mens-Collection-067-450x700.jpg

In fact, the season brought the French fashion house close to the iconic city with a show at New Jersey's Liberty Park. Saint Laurent's rocker-chic aesthetic was once again front and center for the occasion.

Black skinny jeans and cigarette trousers accented leather detailed blazer, suede jackets, and more. Sequins and glittered embellishments added an androgynous attitude to the collection. Meanwhile, sheer tops, frail scarves, and tailored jackets brought home a Parisian spirit.

The show closed with shirtless male models that were clad in sequined pants and covered in glitter body paint. source: thefashionisto.com

Milan Fashion Week Men's - Our Favourite Looks

Just before saying 'goodbye' to this seasons' Men's Fashion Weeks, we stopped by Milan to refresh your mind with some of the legendary brands and collections.  Milan had one of its most notable men fashion shows this season and we chose our favourites to share with you.

Neil Barrett

image2.jpg

One of my favourite set up and Venues. Low lighting and mirror columns in the runway gave the illusion that you were watching the show through a mirror.The collection consisted of three main colours black , blue and military green.

The whole vibe was more on the military side with army cut jackets and coats. My favorite look is definitely this turtle neck knit jumper paired with blue leather trousers.

Versace

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This is one of my favourite Versace collections to date. Maximalism at its finest and a collection full of bold prints -what else of course- .

This season the legendary brand drawn inspiration from its own house as Donatella showcased archive prints and pieces combined with the brand new  ones, paying tribute to her brother Gianni Versace. The medusa logo was printed into rich gold silk and paired with plenty of tartan created amazing visuals.


My favorite look - this pinned striped blazer paired with an oversized v neck a scarf ,pvc looking trousers and Versace’s own take on dad sneakers.
 

Fendi

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With a set design to look like an airport the models arrived on the catwalk waiting to claim their luggages. For the third collection in a row, Venturini Fendi collaborated with an artist and the result was remarkable.

This season’s new arrival was Glaswegian graphic specialist Reilly, who Venturini Fendi first followed on Instagram after he posted a casually conceived logo clash with her house and Fila. “I thought, Uh oh, I’m going to get sued!” Reilly reported. Instead he was backstage in a raffia-fringed Fendi parka watching his capsule collection of T-shirts and collage-print mainline pieces traveling the runway.

The iconic FF print appeared on shearling-edged, diagonal quilt technical wear and accessories including the hands-free, headstrap-attached mini umbrellas that were among the coolest accessories in a collection packed to bursting with finery, flair, and wit.


Favourite look: The logo faux (?) fur jacket with matching gloves and man bag. 

MSGM

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The  MSGM collection was presented on real Italian students rather than models . Giorgetti worked on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes and this season he added  a ‘community-versus-individuality’ dynamic; which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves with... 

The designer gave to the looks a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained.

These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel. 
Favorite look: Satin tshirt and striped jogger trousers.
 

Words: Elias Ttiggis