Versace SS20: Neon and Punk influences during Milan Fashion Week.

Neon hairstyles and codes punk influences on styling were the highlights of the Versace spring/summer 2020 show in Milan.

Donatella chose to pay tribute to her friend Keith Flint for that show. From the flowery set with flamboyant prints, to the casting of tops here is all you need to remember:

photography: vogue.com

Dolce & Gabbana Men: The SS20 show at Milan Fashion Week

That was a remarkable ‘‘comeback’’ show from the Italian fashion house.

We have seen a total resurrection of Dolce & Gabbana archival pieces included a loose armed, high-waisted, two top-cut pocketed leather jacket from 1991 that came in a direct reproduction of the original and variations painted with those quivering pin-ups.

Notable styling with outstaning mix and match comnbinations:

photogaphy: vogue.com

Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

Isabel Marant Men: All the new silhouettes for AW 2019-2020

Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.

source: vogue hommes

TOM FORD Men's AW19 at New York Fashion Week

“I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted after his show at the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday evening, the first of the ready-to-wear season. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beaten up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”

His AW19 collections consists of a sellection of rollencks, satins and tailoring on its best. Modern pieces with a nostalgic mood and minimal lines come to constrast with the very specific puffy jackets and coats.

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 1 HIGHLIGHTS

The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:

Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.

BOBBY ABLEY

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.

ICEBERG:

90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:

Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.

Qasimi:

Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.

Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.

Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY




Dior Men Pre Fall 2019

Kim Jones is building his vision for Dior Men with the notion that rules are meant to be broken.

First, he separated himself from a decade of “Dior Homme” and its super-skinny silhouette with a new name, and a fresh, boxier cut. Now, half a season in, he’s taking his vision on the road, landing in Tokyo with a Pre-Fall extravaganza to rival the season’s blockbuster womenswear shows.

On the runway were items for all kinds of guys, from the ones who want to wear a monogram silk shirt with cherry blossom accents to others who are looking for dapper houndstooth suits with posh, asymmetric blazers. A white astrakhan bomber that shaded into a toile de Jouy summed it up: something elegant as hell, yet grounded in utility, and designed with couture craftsmanship and know-how.

All of this was brought together around a 39-and-a-half-foot statue of a silver robo-babe by the Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama.

Watch the full show below:

source: vogue.com

GUCCI will host a new exhibition in Florence during Pitti Uomo

Gucci opened Gucci Garden within the Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence on January 10, just in time for this year’s Pitti Uomo trade show. Renovated by Alessandro Michele himself, the space holds several exhibition rooms overseen by critic and curator Maria Luisa Frisa, as well as a boutique filled with exclusive products, and a restaurant with the best chef in the world, Massimo Bottura, at its helm. Now, for the 95th Pitti Uomo in January 2019, Gucci has unveiled its plans for a brand-new exhibition, after dedicating one to Alessandro Michele’s collaborations with the house the designer’s homage to Björk’s. Two news artists, succeeding the work of Coco Capitán and Jayde Fish, will present their new murals.

Spread over two floors, the Gucci Garden highlights the history of Gucci, from its founding in 1921 to the present day, through a series of exceptional artefacts such as clothes, accessories, video installations and pieces of art. Each room explores the inspirations that were driving forces behind the house’s success, such as flora and fauna, one of Alessandro Michele’s favorite sources of inspiration and a recurring theme for several seasons now. Artists such as Coco Capitán, Jayde Fish and Trevor Andrew who all contributed to Gucci’s rise in the art world, have also contributed to the space, redecorating its walls with their unique artistic vision. Following the work of Capitán, Fish and Andrew, two new artists will take over the Gucci walls on January 8 2019, just in time for the 95th Pitti Uomo. The new exhibition will take over from the Björk-themed presentation currently in place.

source: vogue hommes

La habitación

Photography & Direction Antonio Candelas

Starring Felipe Villagrana

Milan Fashion Week Men's: Naomi Campbell and Monica Bellucci at Dolce & Gabbana show

Milan, June 16: all eyes were on Monica Bellucci and Naomi Campbell. The duo shocked Men’s Fashion Week by appearing in Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2019 show.

Dolce & Gabbana just presented their Spring/Summer 2019 men’s collection, which they describe as an homage to diversity. Gay and straight couples, 50-somethings walking alongside younger men, a family with child… the whole world was represented.

But two extra special guests rounded out the cast: Monica Bellucci, who last walked for the house in 1992, and Naomi Campbell, the ultimate 90s supermodel. Bellucci walked in a resolutely masculine suit paired with sky-high stilettos, while Campbell wore a white-striped black tuxedo, with outlandish brooches and a hat adding. An exceptional presentation in the history of an Italian house that has often flirted with controversy.

source: vogue homme

Saint Laurent SS19 at New York Fashion Week

Anthony Vaccarello takes inspiration from 1970s New York for Saint Laurent's spring-summer 2019 collection.

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In fact, the season brought the French fashion house close to the iconic city with a show at New Jersey's Liberty Park. Saint Laurent's rocker-chic aesthetic was once again front and center for the occasion.

Black skinny jeans and cigarette trousers accented leather detailed blazer, suede jackets, and more. Sequins and glittered embellishments added an androgynous attitude to the collection. Meanwhile, sheer tops, frail scarves, and tailored jackets brought home a Parisian spirit.

The show closed with shirtless male models that were clad in sequined pants and covered in glitter body paint. source: thefashionisto.com

LoVe InJecTed

Photographer: Matthew Alatsiatianos

Set Up & Grooming: Christos Theophanous

Model: Lucas Cantao

Prada SS18 Campaign

Prada unveiled its SS18 campaign, Photographed by Willy Vanderperre.

The images feature the drawings created by artists Ollie Schrauwen and James Jean featured both in the collection as well as the PRADA runway showspace.

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Drawing inspiration not only from the aesthetics of comic books but their ideology, the overriding sense is of youth, energy, heroism – a fresh perspective on both the artwork, and the Prada Spring/Summer 2018 collection. The artwork backdrops, drawn from the Prada showspace on Via Fogazzaro, accentuate the blurred line between actuality and fantasy – real-life models seem to become comic-book characters; perspectives are challenged, and ultimately exploded. The isolated landscape of each image evokes an individual scenario, a specific storyline; combined, the different images add up to a reflection on the multi-faceted world of today. The world of Prada. – from PRADA

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga AW18

Words by Stephen George

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.

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The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.

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For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.

Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit. 

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Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.

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Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.

The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food

; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.

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For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.

Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow. 
 

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LFW AW18: Burberry

For the last time, Christopher Bailey presented his collection for Burberry AW18 in a show entitled Time. Held in the historical venue of the Dimco Buildings in West London, guests were met with an experience of past, present and future.

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The show was dedicated to LGBTQ+ organisations, with the brand donating to three charities. It was certainly a moment of pride for Bailey, much like every aspect of the show championing the six colours of the Pride flag. The rainbow – a symbol of hope, happiness and inclusivity featured heavily throughout the show, whether it be from the reinvented check now incorporated with the colours (the Rainbow check), or Cara Delevingne’s floor-length cloak which she swept and swayed along the runway. The bright stripes appeared on sweaters, gilets and down one side of the oversized maxi skirt of Adwoa Aboah.

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source: theglassmagazine.com

LFW AW18: JW Anderson

ORGANIC and wearable were words that came to mind when linen and natural fibres featured in JW Anderson’s LFW AW18 collection. Combining his male and female looks into one show was a new venture for Anderson but a venture that was worth it

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Pleated chiffon, woven accessories, bunched collars, fun colourful paisley, and pom poms all appeared on the runway. From heavy knit to neon trainers with furry laces, the collection was making a bold and complex statement. With Anderson’s own art collection and Martin Belou’s sprouting fungi tubes as centrepiece installations dotted across the catwalk, the relationship between art and the natural world was considered.

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source: .theglassmagazine.com