London Fashion Week Men's: The SS20 Highlights

London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.

Alexander McQueen: with SS20 presentation at #LFWM

Classic & Classy Oliver Spencer

Per Götesson: 3D Romance and Simplicity

Chalayan: Loving stripes and the new tailoring

Robyn Lynch for FASHION EAST: Pastels & Super Shorts

Mowalola for FASHION EAST: ‘Vampire’ is the new trend

Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

TOM FORD Men's AW19 at New York Fashion Week

“I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted after his show at the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday evening, the first of the ready-to-wear season. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beaten up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”

His AW19 collections consists of a sellection of rollencks, satins and tailoring on its best. Modern pieces with a nostalgic mood and minimal lines come to constrast with the very specific puffy jackets and coats.

Dior Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Kim Jones did it again… and we loved every single look of this new DIOR Men collection for autumn/winter 2019 -2020.

He offered a remarkably refined vision of modern masculinity and here are some higlights to note before you check out the new collection:

  • After the enormous floral effigy of Monsieur Dior created by KAWS and the 39-foot tall Hajime Sorayama robot, this season he staged the show On A Conveyor Belt.

  • The Clothes Offered A Modern Vision Of Elegance.

  • The animal print will be the new men’s essential.

  • Raymond Pettibon Offered Up Punk Couture

“This time I wanted the clothes to be the statues,” said Kim Jones

source: vogue.co.uk

Dries Van Noten AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.

There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.

source: vogue.com

Milan Fashion Week: Prada Men AW19

The industrial grand hall of the Deposito, part of Fondazione Prada complex, has been transformed into an arena of light and shadows. Miuccia Prada is back at it again as she serves to us the fashion reality and she takes inspiration from old movies like Frankenstein.

When the collection itself appears, it follows suit. Black is the colour that dominates, highlighted by bursts of vivid coloured garments or accessories, such as multiple belts wrapped around the models waist, neon pink boots and bold red feathered headpieces and pale blue glasses that are reminiscent of scientific goggles.

WE LOVE: Rirchard Biedul's looks at London Fashion Week.

If you were around London Fashion Week Men’s last weekend ,you probably came across the super stylish model and influencer.

Posing for street style photographers or catching up with his fashionistas friends and followers, mr Richard Biedul always brings out a unique energy and image that you can’t ignore. He has been one of our favourites from day one and he made it once again this season with his notable looks.

Well-respected within the industry, with designer collaborations and guest appearances on runways and fashion events, the IMG model loves and supports London’s men fashion week from the very beggining as he has been part of it all the previous seasons too.

5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

NARCISSUS

Photographed by AURA

Art Direction & Styling Christos Christou

Grooming Christos Theophanous

starring Platon Papagiannopoulos @ ACE Models


Dior Men Pre Fall 2019

Kim Jones is building his vision for Dior Men with the notion that rules are meant to be broken.

First, he separated himself from a decade of “Dior Homme” and its super-skinny silhouette with a new name, and a fresh, boxier cut. Now, half a season in, he’s taking his vision on the road, landing in Tokyo with a Pre-Fall extravaganza to rival the season’s blockbuster womenswear shows.

On the runway were items for all kinds of guys, from the ones who want to wear a monogram silk shirt with cherry blossom accents to others who are looking for dapper houndstooth suits with posh, asymmetric blazers. A white astrakhan bomber that shaded into a toile de Jouy summed it up: something elegant as hell, yet grounded in utility, and designed with couture craftsmanship and know-how.

All of this was brought together around a 39-and-a-half-foot statue of a silver robo-babe by the Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama.

Watch the full show below:

source: vogue.com

WE LOVE: Harry Styles in the new men's Gucci Tailoring campaign

On set at a fish and chip shop in northern London, Harry Styles appears in the new GUCCI men’s Tailoring campaign.

Wearing the House’s suiting designed by Alessandro Michele for Fall Winter 2018, Harry Styles walks in a ‘chippy’—the traditional British fish and chip shop—with a chicken and a dog. In a wool mohair jacket with embroidered collar and a striped suit styled with a gingham dressing gown, Harry shares his battered cod and fried chips with his pets, in a sequence shot by Glen Luchford and art directed by Christopher Simmonds.


5+1 menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2018-2019

From bucket hats to hiking boots, and from extra large shoulders to superlative layering, these are the Autumn Winter trends to know about.

Sportswear is well-anchored in this new fashion vocabulary, but this season it made way for a few fashion foibles and chic accents ( thank God, tailoring is coming back!).

LOGOMANIA

Street style is not as strong as last year but the 'logomania' trend is here again and this time is more bolder than ever.  After all the new and upcoming brands 'stealing' the top positions of the fashion industry last year, now the big Fashion Houses are assuming the style heritage that they rejected for so long. Go loud with all-over print, or go home.

WESTERN

A symbol of hopes and dreams, the wide plains of the American West are a seemingly inexhaustible source of inspiration for designers across the fashion capitals. From Raf Simons to Calvin Klein and Dries Van Noten the winter collections are proposing the style of the 'modern cowboy'. All you need is camel or earth colours, jeans, cowboy boots and your shearling jacket and you are ready!

XXL SHOULDERS

80s have been in our memories as the years with the most fashion statement looks. Extravaganza womenswear and more bold and androgynous menswear than ever. That was the decade when Mr Armani took over menswear and shoulders got wider... and wider. Today’s times recall a little of the same ambiant zeitgeist that pushed designers to create jackets and coats with shoulders that were ever wider.

"Fashion armour for an uncertain world."

EXTREME LAYERING

Demna Gvasalia did it again... Balenciaga and Vetements ''were doing the most!'' with superlative layering and really similar looks on the runway, supporting Demna's unique street style aesthetic. A kick in the teeth for global warming and tension around the world, or simple seasonal styling? You decide.

CLUB TROPICANA

From Prada’s archive flame print revival, to rebel skulls at SSS World Cop and Wales Bonner’s sensitive motifs, the print shirt will run and run through next winter. Refreshing and definitely something new for a winter season.

MidNight GLAM

Sequins and metallic are back again but this season all the midnight glam becomes 'a man thing'!  Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, SSS World Cop and Balmain have already shown the way - you only have to find your favourite now...

We have to admit that this winter is full of new entries when it comes to trends. Some others that we love at REY and you will definitely see in our next editorial stories are the Fetishism of Moschino,  the new Tiger print addiction and the Space Fantasy  ( see Heron Preston or Undercover). 

 

Pictures belong to Voque Homme

LES DEUX AW18 collection

The Danish brand Les Deux  has been created back in 2009 as only a t-shirt concept, but the brand has evolved with a full collection and premium finish. Les Deux consists of contemporary, practical pieces with scandi aesthetic and elements, and it  has become one to watch on REY.

.This AW18 season, Les Deux have worked to develop a collection that embodies the coming together of subcultures. The brand has submerged itself into three different brotherhoods of society’s misfits from around the world- The Bluecoat Brotherhood, The Foreign Legion and Hooliganism.

The collection attempts to reflect the communities that have, and continue to disrupt the social norms, defining their own space within society. This is translated through a delicate balance of its heritage minimalistic-Scandi-style, combined with key stand-out staples that create a feeling of diversity.

Wool and knitwear, along with  slogan T-shirts and sweatshirts, crisp cotton shirts and bomber jackets have been combined with tailored trousers, accessories and trainers for a cool contemporary look.

For more collection and stocklist visit lesdeux.com

Follow LES DEUX on Instagram

Paris Fashion Week Men's:Kim Jones' debut with Dior Homme SS19

Kim Jones made his debut in Paris on Saturday afternoon as artistic director for Dior Men, the rechristened Dior Homme, completing the changing of the guard for the spring/summer 2019 season. In a tribute to Dior and to his own heritage, Jones invited Prince Nikolai of Denmark to start the show.

The British designer mined the Dior archive for inspiration to pay tribute to the man who established the fabled brand in 1946.This aesthetic approach lends itself to a softer, more relaxed Dior Men than we are used to seeing. 

Dior Homme SS19 has streetwear touches and elements but Jones moved away from the huge trend, offering to the audience pure tailoring luxury. “I’ve moved away from that a bit,” he explained. “[That’s] easy modern menswear; this is a lot more elegant and sophisticated and a little bit romantic too, which is what Dior is.”

source: guardian.com

Milan Fashion Week Men's: Naomi Campbell and Monica Bellucci at Dolce & Gabbana show

Milan, June 16: all eyes were on Monica Bellucci and Naomi Campbell. The duo shocked Men’s Fashion Week by appearing in Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2019 show.

Dolce & Gabbana just presented their Spring/Summer 2019 men’s collection, which they describe as an homage to diversity. Gay and straight couples, 50-somethings walking alongside younger men, a family with child… the whole world was represented.

But two extra special guests rounded out the cast: Monica Bellucci, who last walked for the house in 1992, and Naomi Campbell, the ultimate 90s supermodel. Bellucci walked in a resolutely masculine suit paired with sky-high stilettos, while Campbell wore a white-striped black tuxedo, with outlandish brooches and a hat adding. An exceptional presentation in the history of an Italian house that has often flirted with controversy.

source: vogue homme

BLK & BLU

Photographer Karl Slater

Styling Christos Christou

starring Nicholas @ ESTABLISHED Models

Grooming: Thomas Bucklen

Assistant Stylist: Martina Ghia

London Fashion Week Men's SS19: THE TREND REPORT

The latest London Fashion Week Men's sets the bar for the Spring/Summer 2019 men's shows around the world. Here are the biggest new season menswear trends from the catwalks in the nation's capital.

Between John Lawrence Sullivan’s slim-cut leather biker suits, long-line leather overcoats and tiny nineties-style specs and Daniel W Fletcher’s slim-cut and be-harnessed trenches and skinny black tailored pieces the looks had strong references from 90s movies and trends .

Daniel W Fletcher SS19

From the movie ‘Interview with a vampire’ to ‘Matrix, we have seen it all and especially in Matthew Miller show when the street style looks have been combine with nylon-metallic elements and fabric.

Then it was all about relaxed tailoring.

From tailored tracksuit bottoms and smart khaki pieces to oversized blazers combined with wide trousers or skinny shorts, search Qasimi  SS19 for more of the looks, we have seen from villagers country looks ( see Lou Dalton or Wood Wood presentations) to the vampires and the huntsmen.

Qasimi SS19

Qasimi SS19

More oriental vibes with floral or embelished ''versace'' inspired patterns and aesthetic, and relaxed shirt combinations you could see in shows like Oliver Spencer and Edward Crutchley.  (The music background supported the presentations and the fashion 'journey')

I know we should note all the bright colours and combinations for the spring/summer season but 2019 seems to be quite dark and moody. The strongest colour pallet within the collections was the burgundy - wine red - purple - cloud pink..sh one in all the tones and shades. Designers like Oliver Spencer or Ben Sherman used it in almost all the looks and others kept it more specific but as the colour for the hero pieces. ( check Kiko Kostadinov) 

Ben Sherman SS19

Ben Sherman SS19

Kiko Kostadinov SS19

Kiko Kostadinov SS19

And last but not least.... THE CROPPED TOPS or as we all know ’crop tops’. Yes, crop tops were ‘a thing’ for SS19 presentations and it looks like it will be a strong trends on menswear collections next year. From John Lawrence to Astrid Andersen, the crop top trend has made its strongest entry ever for SS19 ( well, at least for the last 15 years)

London Fashion Week Men's SS19: THE HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright- again. I suppose it was another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' for another one season.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties... three days full of fashion; and before the final shows of today and the beggining of Milan's Fashion Week, here are some of our favourite highlights and fashion moments.


DANIEL W. FLETCHER debuts SS19 COLLECTION AT LFW:M

With his first ever runway show in London Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher was one of the names that you could hear everywhere during the weekend.

For SS19, the British Designer chose a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white  and he moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.

Monochromatic androgyny looks, along with some some gender subversion elements were some of the highlights of the collection, plus THE prints which was a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh.


JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

One of our favourite collections inspired by the societal outliers of the Swiss punk movement, new wave and Dave Gahan, lead singer of synth-pop icons Depeche Mode

Strong contemporary tailoring and pieces in a pallet of black, white, red and a shade of green amazed the fashionistas. Tight-fitting shorts styled with oversized blazers and crop tops giving us some of our favourite looks for SS19.


OLIVER SPENCER

Classy and classic, the SS19 of Oliver Spencer has taken classic tailoring to another level.

The colour pallet was in grey and ice blue tones and the fifty shades of... pink. The  tailored pieces were beautifuly combined with oversized coats or polo t-shirts bringing out a floral-spring mood, without floral patterns at all.. Well except the notable cinematic intro imagery with spring fields and flowers.

 It's worth mentioning the noteworthy model names who walked for Oliver Spencer's SS19 show, with our favourite one, Richard Biedul leading the runway.


Ben Sherman

The Ben Sherman SS19 collection was inspired by young rock and roll icons of the 60s and from the time period when the designer first visited America to build the identity of the brand.

Iconic checks and candy stripes fused together with a unique twist, blending rock and roll style with preppy ivy leagues looks to create the ideal Ben Sherman style. Colour pallets are rooted in different blues, silver pink and tomato cream. Dark Red and Olive Green become the new neutrals and a collaboration with HOUSE OF HOLLAND for the second season has as a result of several colours and prints.


ALEX MULLINS

This season Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs in a perfect symmetry. The SS19 collection opened with a series of suits in khaki, black and tan all with contrasting coloured cut out vests more suited to a 90s rave pulled taut across the jackets, playing with proportion and genre.

Some of the highlight looks consist of ribbed knitted jumpers, white sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘Alex Mullins’ appealed to the logomania trend, metallics (yes; for the summer period!), standout pink and white suiting and Japanese inspired prints. 

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga AW18

Words by Stephen George

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.

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The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.

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For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.

Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit. 

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Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.

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Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.

The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food

; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.

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For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.

Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow. 
 

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