Words by Stephen George
Last Friday 11/5, Burberry sent social media into pandemonium with a collection of images from their Resort 2019 collection on their Instagram stories and feed.
The images are a first look at the brand through the eyes of its new chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci who took up the position in March replacing Christopher Bailey after 17 years.
The collection entitled – B Classic is a series of eight images that showcases and highlights the history of the brand. On his arrival at the house Tisci “wanted to celebrate the beauty, heritage and legacy that I discovered.” In doing this Tisci curated and styled the looks that were designed by the in-house team. This translated into a collection that is outerwear heavy and touches on Burberry iconography. The trench coat, the Harrington jacket, the car coat and cape in military green, brown and Horse ferry check came styled as his-and-hers outfits each couple photographed in loving embrace.
No new ground or trends are trends are being set here this is a collection made to keep Burberry in fashion conversation until Tisci’s official debut collection for the brand on Monday 17th September at 5pm. It does round off a 17-year era that Bailey championed Burberry and put the brand on the international fashion stage. This is a collection that nails the idea of fashion fluidity, the duality of clothes and gender flexibility of the dressing. It encapsulates the same spirit and joy Bailey showcased in his last show in February where he celebrated the LGBT+ community.
This gives us no indication of what Tisci has planned come September which makes the anticipation even more worth waiting for.
Kyle Lo Monaco is a London based fashion designer who doesn't like labels and barriers on his creations.
He has introduced himself through his custom and bespoke made services and finally we are happy to present you his first official project which is a capsule collection before the first completed Kyle Lo Monaco collection for Spring Summer 2019.
The 'Not of the Age' collection is taking inspiration from every day life activities that used to be a man's job but they have been adopted to be done by the modern woman of 2018 as well. Painting the walls, gardening or customizing a furniture are some of the activities that Kyle's mother has been doing in her daily routine and work as an interior designer, and that was the main inspiration of the collection. A modern mother that equally works and performs as the contemporary man of 2018. His mother and his strong heritage background have been strong influences of him and his projects in the past, and they still own a huge part of inspiration on the current collection.
Black, white and red are the main colours of the 'Not the Age' collection with oversized shirts, light layering and stripes patterns leading the project. Versatile, contemporary pieces that can be worn even from her boyfriend, as the collection has a gender fluid aesthetic.
The campaign is photographed by Christina Ebenezer and styled by Kyle Lo Monaco.
The princess of pop did it again and this time she goes high fashion!
Britney Spears is the face of Kenzo’s second nostalgia-based La Collection Momento for Spring 2018. The new collection is actually a tribute to the debut of Kenzo Jeans in 1986.
Cropped denim jackets and tops, thigh-high lace-up boots, and a sweatshirt and baseball hat stamped with a #throwback version of the original Kenzo logo have been styled perfectly on Britney who is having so much fun in her first luxury fashion campaign ever!
The campaign was shot on location in Los Angeles by Peter Lindbergh and the name of it: #KenzoLovesBritney
The collection is now available on KENZO.com.
Words by Stephen George
It was one of the most anticipated shows of the season. Since his appointment as the creative director of Balenciaga in 2015 Demna Gvasalia has moved the brand on from the marred era of Alexander Wang to creating cult pieces that appeal to all consumers.
The Triple S trainer, the Knife boot, the Speed Runner, the Bazaar bag, the logo cap, the Bombardier, the Swing jacket, the Pantashoes… the list goes on. He’s been respectful of Cristobal’s legacy and archive forever infusing his work into each collection but modernising it at the same time creating street wear pieces that drive street style photographers into a frenzy during fashion week and guarantee instant street cred.
For his Autumn/Winter 2018-19 presentation Gvasalia unified his men’s and women’s collections for the first time since being at the maison under a snow white graffiti covered mountain. The iconography and slogans that Gvasalia has shown from his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2016-17 appeared plastered all over – ‘THINK BIG’, ‘THE POWER OF DREAMS’ and ‘NO BORDERS’ alongside the gay pride flag and new season slogan ‘+33 156528799’.
Gvasalia has tapped into his customer’s buying pattern – men buy into the womenswear and vice versa. Looks like Cristobal’s iconic hourglass jacket were shown on both male and female models. Gvasalia in his research of Cristobal’s archive and noting his work with volume and innovation at the time wanted to find a way to update it for today. This translated to high tech tailoring made from a single piece of fabric bonded at two seams. The tailoring was digitally fitted until the models whose bodies were 3D scanned for a perfect fit.
Trends that were seen throughout the whole fashion month were seen during the show. Neons (as seen at Prada, Moschino and Balmain) in pinks, lime and yellows came on fuzzy coats and bags, turtlenecks, skirts and Knife boots were a nod to the 80’s.
Leopard and cheetah prints (as seen at Tom Ford, Roberto Cavalli and Victoria Beckham) appeared on shaggy coats and dresses that were knee-length at the front but cut into a leotard at the back. Multi-coloured winter floral prints (as seen at Richard Quinn, Christian Dior and Christopher Kane) on razor pleated skirts, flowing blouses, body-con and tea dresses.
The BALENCIAGA branding - the mainstay and the commercial win for the company was in full effect on a simple, deep black tote bag and a long handled black bag with repeat logo and sunglasses. A new collaboration with the World Food
; the largest humanitarian organisation fighting hunger worldwide made its debut. The charity’s logo appeared alongside the brand’s logo on bum bags, hoodies, caps, sweatshirts and knitwear with the slogan ‘SAVING LIVES, CHANGING LIVES’. 10% of the proceeds made from the sale of these items will go directly to the charity as well as the $250,000 that the brand has already donated to the charity.
For his finale Gvasalia presented a new way to wear outerwear. Jackets of various styles – bombers, blousons, nylon parkas, donkey, denim, field, fur and windbreakers were layered one on top of the other, on top of the other, on top of the other.
Although not forward thinking or ground-breaking in it’s presentation (Gvasalia showed the same styling concept in January for his Vetements Autumn/Winter 2018-19 show) this was Gvasalia flexing his commercial power; Balenciaga outerwear is hot property with customers splashing out to but a piece from that season. This was a much cleaner presentation and executed with finesse and flair. If only these jackets were available 3 days ago when Storm Emma covered the whole of Europe in snow.
ORGANIC and wearable were words that came to mind when linen and natural fibres featured in JW Anderson’s LFW AW18 collection. Combining his male and female looks into one show was a new venture for Anderson but a venture that was worth it
Pleated chiffon, woven accessories, bunched collars, fun colourful paisley, and pom poms all appeared on the runway. From heavy knit to neon trainers with furry laces, the collection was making a bold and complex statement. With Anderson’s own art collection and Martin Belou’s sprouting fungi tubes as centrepiece installations dotted across the catwalk, the relationship between art and the natural world was considered.