London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.
It is on a paradisiacal beach of Malibu that Anthony Vaccarello has just unveiled his man parade spring-summer 2020. Incredible set, inspirations landed in Marrakech, tribute to Yves Saint Laurent ... Here is all that was needed of this California show..
THE SET: the Malibu beach side in Los Angeles
THE INSPIRATION: Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent with the styling between Malibu and Marrakech.
THE TRENDS PROPOSAL: Fluidity, freedom and comfort. At a time when the trend is streetwear, Anthony Vaccarello abandons it and he propose his new tailoring.
Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.
Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.
Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.
Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.
source: vogue hommes
Kim Jones did it again… and we loved every single look of this new DIOR Men collection for autumn/winter 2019 -2020.
He offered a remarkably refined vision of modern masculinity and here are some higlights to note before you check out the new collection:
After the enormous floral effigy of Monsieur Dior created by KAWS and the 39-foot tall Hajime Sorayama robot, this season he staged the show On A Conveyor Belt.
The Clothes Offered A Modern Vision Of Elegance.
The animal print will be the new men’s essential.
Raymond Pettibon Offered Up Punk Couture
“This time I wanted the clothes to be the statues,” said Kim Jones
It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”
Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:
Scarlet - Hot Pink combination
Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)
Overcoats will always be … grey
Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.
Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.
Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.
There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.
Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.
The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.
The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style
source: Vogue Italia
The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:
Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.
For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.
90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:
Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.
Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.
Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.
Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY
Kim Jones is building his vision for Dior Men with the notion that rules are meant to be broken.
First, he separated himself from a decade of “Dior Homme” and its super-skinny silhouette with a new name, and a fresh, boxier cut. Now, half a season in, he’s taking his vision on the road, landing in Tokyo with a Pre-Fall extravaganza to rival the season’s blockbuster womenswear shows.
On the runway were items for all kinds of guys, from the ones who want to wear a monogram silk shirt with cherry blossom accents to others who are looking for dapper houndstooth suits with posh, asymmetric blazers. A white astrakhan bomber that shaded into a toile de Jouy summed it up: something elegant as hell, yet grounded in utility, and designed with couture craftsmanship and know-how.
All of this was brought together around a 39-and-a-half-foot statue of a silver robo-babe by the Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama.
Watch the full show below:
Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright- again. I suppose it was another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' for another one season.
Three days full of shows, presentations and parties... three days full of fashion; and before the final shows of today and the beggining of Milan's Fashion Week, here are some of our favourite highlights and fashion moments.
DANIEL W. FLETCHER debuts SS19 COLLECTION AT LFW:M
With his first ever runway show in London Fashion Week, Daniel W. Fletcher was one of the names that you could hear everywhere during the weekend.
For SS19, the British Designer chose a luxe palette of grey, brown, black, and white and he moved considerably further away from the themes of British heritage and schoolboy-nostalgia that have informed his previous designs.
Monochromatic androgyny looks, along with some some gender subversion elements were some of the highlights of the collection, plus THE prints which was a collaboration with artist Caitlin Keogh.
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN
One of our favourite collections inspired by the societal outliers of the Swiss punk movement, new wave and Dave Gahan, lead singer of synth-pop icons Depeche Mode
Strong contemporary tailoring and pieces in a pallet of black, white, red and a shade of green amazed the fashionistas. Tight-fitting shorts styled with oversized blazers and crop tops giving us some of our favourite looks for SS19.
Classy and classic, the SS19 of Oliver Spencer has taken classic tailoring to another level.
The colour pallet was in grey and ice blue tones and the fifty shades of... pink. The tailored pieces were beautifuly combined with oversized coats or polo t-shirts bringing out a floral-spring mood, without floral patterns at all.. Well except the notable cinematic intro imagery with spring fields and flowers.
It's worth mentioning the noteworthy model names who walked for Oliver Spencer's SS19 show, with our favourite one, Richard Biedul leading the runway.
The Ben Sherman SS19 collection was inspired by young rock and roll icons of the 60s and from the time period when the designer first visited America to build the identity of the brand.
Iconic checks and candy stripes fused together with a unique twist, blending rock and roll style with preppy ivy leagues looks to create the ideal Ben Sherman style. Colour pallets are rooted in different blues, silver pink and tomato cream. Dark Red and Olive Green become the new neutrals and a collaboration with HOUSE OF HOLLAND for the second season has as a result of several colours and prints.
This season Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs in a perfect symmetry. The SS19 collection opened with a series of suits in khaki, black and tan all with contrasting coloured cut out vests more suited to a 90s rave pulled taut across the jackets, playing with proportion and genre.
Some of the highlight looks consist of ribbed knitted jumpers, white sweatshirts emblazoned with ‘Alex Mullins’ appealed to the logomania trend, metallics (yes; for the summer period!), standout pink and white suiting and Japanese inspired prints.
Just before saying 'goodbye' to this seasons' Men's Fashion Weeks, we stopped by Milan to refresh your mind with some of the legendary brands and collections. Milan had one of its most notable men fashion shows this season and we chose our favourites to share with you.
One of my favourite set up and Venues. Low lighting and mirror columns in the runway gave the illusion that you were watching the show through a mirror.The collection consisted of three main colours black , blue and military green.
The whole vibe was more on the military side with army cut jackets and coats. My favorite look is definitely this turtle neck knit jumper paired with blue leather trousers.
This is one of my favourite Versace collections to date. Maximalism at its finest and a collection full of bold prints -what else of course- .
This season the legendary brand drawn inspiration from its own house as Donatella showcased archive prints and pieces combined with the brand new ones, paying tribute to her brother Gianni Versace. The medusa logo was printed into rich gold silk and paired with plenty of tartan created amazing visuals.
My favorite look - this pinned striped blazer paired with an oversized v neck a scarf ,pvc looking trousers and Versace’s own take on dad sneakers.
With a set design to look like an airport the models arrived on the catwalk waiting to claim their luggages. For the third collection in a row, Venturini Fendi collaborated with an artist and the result was remarkable.
This season’s new arrival was Glaswegian graphic specialist Reilly, who Venturini Fendi first followed on Instagram after he posted a casually conceived logo clash with her house and Fila. “I thought, Uh oh, I’m going to get sued!” Reilly reported. Instead he was backstage in a raffia-fringed Fendi parka watching his capsule collection of T-shirts and collage-print mainline pieces traveling the runway.
The iconic FF print appeared on shearling-edged, diagonal quilt technical wear and accessories including the hands-free, headstrap-attached mini umbrellas that were among the coolest accessories in a collection packed to bursting with finery, flair, and wit.
Favourite look: The logo faux (?) fur jacket with matching gloves and man bag.
The MSGM collection was presented on real Italian students rather than models . Giorgetti worked on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes and this season he added a ‘community-versus-individuality’ dynamic; which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves with...
The designer gave to the looks a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained.
These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel.
Favorite look: Satin tshirt and striped jogger trousers.
Words: Elias Ttiggis
Words by Stephen George
The schedule’s short! Menswear is in turmoil!! Fashion week is falling apart at the seams!!! THE BEES ARE DISAPPEARING!!!! The bees disappearing have nothing to do with fashion week but they do share something in common – they represent the current state of the (fashion) industry today.
We’ve seen the schedules become tighter and smaller - London Fashion Week: Mens neé London Collections: Men was the caped crusader of menswear; at one point spanning five days has been reduced to 3 days for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season. Gone are the big hitters – Burberry, J.W. Anderson who have now chosen to follow the same model as Gucci and Balenciaga to show their men’s and women’s collections together. Additionally fashion darling Martine Rose and stalwart are also absent from the schedule.
All together these changes and absences led to a very underwhelming season with a few notable highlights and moments of genius. One plus side of having a very skimpy and light fashion week schedule it makes designers present some of their best work but also the crowd is on high alert for something brilliant and beautiful to come down the runway and take their breath away. For a moment when the hairs on the back of your neck stand up and you put away your phone and enjoy what is being shown in front of you.
John Lawrence Sullivan kicked off the first day of London Fashion Week: Mens by presenting a collection drawing its inspiration from psychopathic thriller movies like Scorsese’s Taxi Driver and Lynch’s Twin Peaks. The Arashi Yanagawa translated this in looks that featured indigo blue jeans mixed with black leather on the legs, worn leather gilets and jackets that tied on the sides like straight jackets. Yanagawa expanded on his signature palette of black and grey with licks of lavender purples and emerald greens. Plaid printed coats and a leopard print overcoat riffed on Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent which played into the cowboy western theme. John Lawrence Sullivan is what Vetements wants to be but more authentic and less consumer and appealing to the masses.
The spaghetti western American cowboy inspiration was evident at Astrid Andersen. Despite not being alive for the Buffalo movement she managed to captured and replicate the look with a modern, street wear edge that her brand has been founded on.
All the Andersen signatures were there – lace and logo t-shirts and hoodies, ornate and check printed baggy trousers and shorts sent out to a hip-hop soundtrack and Nike trainers. She added the Buffalo spirit through accessorising looks with Stetson hats, lashings of tweed and shaggy wool.
The standout of day two came at the end of day two from Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy. Charles Jeffrey is currently riding a momentous career wave. Hailed as London’s contemporary Galliano for this generation he’s coming off the back of winning the award for Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards last month presented by John Galliano himself. He was one of highlights of the MAN show for the three seasons he showed before going it alone. Since then he’s gone from strength to strength with a team comprising of the infamous Gary Card. He’s managed to bring the young gay community collectively together, gave them a space to bring their theatre, drama and performance back to fashion shows, educated the young and unwashed about club kid culture but through it all manage to put a grin on the coldest hearted individual in the room.
Jeffrey’s shows have a way of transporting you to another place and making you feel some kind of emotion – this year it was anger and fear. Waiting for the show to start figures dressed in dirty, dusty clothes and chalky white faces came out and began screaming; a woman sat next to me jumped out her skin. No one expected it and for over 10 minutes these figures roamed around the runway screaming and yelling at each other and at guests as they were being seated. Like angry, disgruntle toddlers they threw a tantrum!
When the show started it kicked off with a live band playing a heavy rock version of The Prodigy’s Firestarter instantly transporting us back to the angsty moody teenagers blaring this song out of our bedrooms angry at the world for no reason. As the drums kicked in and heartbeats raced the face model pounded down the runway in a moth eaten double-breasted navy suit fastened with an oversized safety pin – the most wearable look of the collection. Other looks featured an red and blue argyle sweater ballooned and cinched at the waist and a graffiti swiggle print logo long sleeved tee shirt and high waisted light blue trousers with red side stripe on a male model who’s face was painted to resemble Naomi Campbell and a strut to match. The whole time the figures from earlier berate, applaud and react as they walk past.
New to Jeffrey’s vocabulary was the inclusion of tartan midi length skirt suit cinched at the waist and flared at the knee with beret to match or the long length tartan jacket with cropped trouser. All of which were inspired by Jeffrey’s trip to his hometown in Scotland and his Scottish heritage.
This feeling of grunge and the 90s rave culture was evident at Liam Hodges. Styled with cartoon flora green hair and extreme makeup featuring X’s on the eyes and a downturned smile on the lips of some of the models. Models took to the checkerboard runway in cartoon graphics of daisies and ghosts t-shirts layered over thin black and white striped long sleeved t-shirts, bleached striped denim matching jacket and trousers complete with FILA sneaker-boots. Hodges drove home his message of youth and enjoying it while it lasted with a finale that had Baz Luhrman’s Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen).
‘Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth
you will not understand the power and beauty of your youth until they have faded.
But trust me, in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself
And recall in a way you can’t grasp now how the possibility lay before
you and how fabulous you really looked…’
London Fashion Week: Mens a few years later; older and wiser still manages to intrigue, entertain and tug at the heart strings.