LOEWE FW19 by Tyler Mitchell

To showcase Jonathan Anderson’s Menswear Fall/Winter 2019, LOEWE has collaborated with Tyler Mitchell, the rising talent best known for shooting Beyoncé for the September 2018 cover of US Vogue.

Taking the playful masculinity that has characterized the brand’s evolving Men’s collections to a new level, Benjamin Bruno styled a group of young models for the latest hardcover look book. The collection, which had its runway debut in Paris last January, used the historic locations of Piedra del Rey Moro and Museo de Santa Cruz in the Spanish city of Toledo as its picturesque backdrop.

Paris Fashion Week Men's: Our favourites for SS 20

Paris Fashion Week Men’s has now ended and here are our favourite shows and designers for spring/summer 2020:

DIOR

Classic and classy with modern aesthetic and the new tailoring on its best.

JW ANDERSON

Elements and styling from the Middle East with a JW Anderson twist.

JACQUEMUS

The French designer celebated the 10th anniversary fo his brand and the show was definitely one of our favourites. The collection was colourful and sexy all the way.

Dries Van Noten

Floral and animal prints with strong army elements and extreme styling.

BALMAIN

Olivier Rousteing is finally back showcasing a refined, colourful collection. We loved the strong tailoring elements.

Dolce & Gabbana Men: The SS20 show at Milan Fashion Week

That was a remarkable ‘‘comeback’’ show from the Italian fashion house.

We have seen a total resurrection of Dolce & Gabbana archival pieces included a loose armed, high-waisted, two top-cut pocketed leather jacket from 1991 that came in a direct reproduction of the original and variations painted with those quivering pin-ups.

Notable styling with outstaning mix and match comnbinations:

photogaphy: vogue.com

MSGM: TheSS20 show at Pitti Uomo

MSGM has revealed its 10th anniversary collection in Florence, during Pitti Uomo.

Camp collar shirts in lobster, poppy, or bandana paisley prints were mashed against pants and track jackets in lividly clashing two-tone leopard print. Sebago boat shoes and linen blousons and shorts featured naive graphics and heartfelt scrawled messages of summer love. A collaboration with the painter Norbert Bisky produced an attractive fractured portrait used as prints on shirting, shorts, and perforated nylon vests or in panels on the tailoring.



London Fashion Week Men's: The SS20 Highlights

London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 has already finished; our editors have sent their feedback and favourite collections to post and here are our higlights from London, just before Milan’s celebration of menswear fashion.

Alexander McQueen: with SS20 presentation at #LFWM

Classic & Classy Oliver Spencer

Per Götesson: 3D Romance and Simplicity

Chalayan: Loving stripes and the new tailoring

Robyn Lynch for FASHION EAST: Pastels & Super Shorts

Mowalola for FASHION EAST: ‘Vampire’ is the new trend

Saint Laurent SS2020: What we loved from the show in Los Angeles

It is on a paradisiacal beach of Malibu that Anthony Vaccarello has just unveiled his man parade spring-summer 2020. Incredible set, inspirations landed in Marrakech, tribute to Yves Saint Laurent ... Here is all that was needed of this California show..

WE LOVED

THE SET: the Malibu beach side in Los Angeles

THE INSPIRATION: Tribute to Yves Saint Laurent with the styling between Malibu and Marrakech.

THE TRENDS PROPOSAL: Fluidity, freedom and comfort. At a time when the trend is streetwear, Anthony Vaccarello abandons it and he propose his new tailoring.



Prada Men SS2020: Watch the show in Shanghai

#PradaSS20 Menswear was shown in Shanghai at the Silo Hall of Minsheng Wharf. An arrangement of neon lights outlines the industrial form language of the hall, enhancing the intricate geometries, generating a glowing enfilade that shimmers in subtle pastel colors.


Balenciaga AW 2019-2020 at Paris Fashion Week

Demna did it again, as he managed to present us another fresh view of the ‘New’ Balenciaga era.

Showcasing more than 100 looks in total and with menswear being a very strong presence on the catwalk, he managed to deliver what his fans and the fashion world was expecting to see at Paris Fashion Week.

Noteable 90s elements, extra-wide shoulders, bold colours, clean lines and the ‘Demna’ tailoring on its best; here are some of our favourite menswear looks at Balenciaga Ready to Wear Collection.

photography: vogue.com

Isabel Marant Men: All the new silhouettes for AW 2019-2020

Isabel Marant delivers an autumn-winter 2019-2020 collection inspired by urban safari through a sandy-white, off-white, khaki-colored range of ultra comfortable models such as knit sweaters, carrot pants and 80's shoulder suits. Cocooning silhouettes that will, for sure, embellish the men's wardrobe next winter.

source: vogue hommes

Maison Margiela: AW19 men's collection

Maison Margiela AW19 offered up an antidote to digital overload.

John Galliano presented the latest collection for his band of ‘digital nomads’ and we love every single piece of it.

The show was on the tittles of every fashion site and magazine and here are the key elements of the Maison Margiela AW19 by John Galliano.

  • It was darker than the previous collection but the blalck gave space to the most colourful (neon) pieces to shine.

  • Painted hair, make up on men’s eyes, feathers and elements from the ‘Swan Lake’

  • Extra wide shoulders wih triangle shapes on the outerwear and belts as the main accessories completed the styling.

TOM FORD Men's AW19 at New York Fashion Week

“I do think that the political climate has influenced my designs,” Tom Ford admitted after his show at the Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday evening, the first of the ready-to-wear season. “I don’t mean that I wanted to do something in reaction to it, but I feel beaten up; worn out. I don’t want to look at aggressive clothes. I want to look at something beautiful and soft and pared down a bit.”

His AW19 collections consists of a sellection of rollencks, satins and tailoring on its best. Modern pieces with a nostalgic mood and minimal lines come to constrast with the very specific puffy jackets and coats.

Celine Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week

n his debut show for Celine – now sans accent – in September, Hedi Slimane made it more than clear what his intentions are for the house. If anyone thought that some of the reactions to that show would have an effect on his vision, his first men’s show for Celine spelled out a big fat – or indeed very, very skinny – no. In fashion, as in life, there are certain forces that will make themselves heard. Slimane is one of them. He believes in his own vision to its utmost core: from the mechanical light installation that fanfares every show (this time it was a huge geometric ball) to the stick thin models that walk his runway (a new one turns 18 every minute), to the emerging rock bands that score his collections (the irreverently named Crack Cloud), and the vintage-inspired aesthetic that embodies his garments. No matter how deep you search, the ultimate proposal of any of his collections – and indeed the one he showed on Sunday night – is in essence the brand of Hedi Slimane.

Seasonal collections, however, are put in the world to propose something new for the immediate future. So how do you, as an observer of such collections, approach the work of a designer, who believes so strongly in a consistent point of view? You could read into Sunday evening’s Celine collection and say that it proposed a more cropped and roomier tailored trouser, or that its suiting evoked the tie-wearing Patrick Bateman yuppie dad tailoring of 1980s’ Valentino; only cut for a much, much skinnier frame. You could talk about the glitter and sequinned pieces, which were no doubt of a notable artisanal value. Or you could point out the obvious nostalgia – or was it wistfulness – that existed within the collection for the mid-2000s when indie music culture was at its high and everyone looked like the boys, who walked the 2019 Celine runway. What has to be stated – for the sake of the history books – is that Celine menswear, which didn’t exist under Slimane’s predecessor Phoebe Philo, was brought into the world looking like this.

find more on vogue.co.uk

Kris van Assche’s debut at Berluti during Paris Fashion Week.

It’s been 10 months since Kris Van Assche was appointed creative director of Berluti, departing the storied couturier Dior and setting up shop within a brand long-established not for its garments but, first and foremost, its “exquisite leather” and its handmade shoes. “Luxury takes time. I needed these months to understand Berluti and turn the page,” he reflected backstage. “It’s a totally different know-how: I come from a luxury house, but this is a different kind of luxury.”


Kris van Assche’s TRENDS proposals:

  • Scarlet - Hot Pink combination

  • Patinated leather on clothing ( even on suits)

  • Overcoats will always be … grey

  • Slim and skinny are the new lines on trousers.

  • Ponyskin is the next new thing on jackets and accessories.

Dries Van Noten AW19 at Paris Fashion Week Men's

Dries Van Noten has presented a selection of voices that accompanied his AW 2019/2020 collection—an aural backdrop of snatches of conversations and interviews with the men Van Noten admires. There was David Bowie, of course: his pleated pants, a flavor of his ’80s persona. There was David Hockney, talking about getting up mid-morning in California, and going out to see what’s around to paint.

There was a burst of Jimi Hendrix—cue a riff on tie-dye. Kurt Cobain, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, Yves Saint Laurent, David Byrne. And in the middle of it, there was the mordant voice of an Englishman, nailing the state of affairs today. “I think the whole of our society is run by insane people for insane objects," he said. Turned out to be John Lennon, in the ’60s.

source: vogue.com

Milan Fashion Week: Prada Men AW19

The industrial grand hall of the Deposito, part of Fondazione Prada complex, has been transformed into an arena of light and shadows. Miuccia Prada is back at it again as she serves to us the fashion reality and she takes inspiration from old movies like Frankenstein.

When the collection itself appears, it follows suit. Black is the colour that dominates, highlighted by bursts of vivid coloured garments or accessories, such as multiple belts wrapped around the models waist, neon pink boots and bold red feathered headpieces and pale blue glasses that are reminiscent of scientific goggles.

Milan Fashion Week: Versace Men AW19

Donatella Versace continues to draw from the archives of her brother Gianni, to transport the fashion house towards the future.

The group, gang, the Versace family becomes a pretext to tell stories of very different women, but all strong, brave, sexy and confident. While tartan is the symbol par excellence of belonging, Donatella Versace decides to blend together different eras and styles.

The leather bustier celebrates a 80s glamorous, pleated skirts and argyle sweaters are combined with punk and wasp and evening dresses are worn over the logo T-shirt in full DIY style

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 2 & 3 HIGHLIGHTS

Another season without ''the big'' British names on the schedule and things were alright - again. Another opportunity for the young designers to 'shine' and attract the international media with their work.

Three days full of shows, presentations and parties…. and before Milan Fashion Week here are the higlights from day 2 & 3.

ALEX MULLINS

Women presented menswear in Mullins’ AW19 show which was one of our favourites.

Mens pieces became Gender fluid in terms of styling with denim and tailoring being the key elements of the collection. The colour pallete consists of blue, yellow, oatmail and graphics in red and black details.

Mullins said his starting point for the lineup happened on his way home one night, when he saw woman getting out of a car wearing a yellow mohair scarf and a coat, except it turned out “it wasn’t yellow mohair, it was just her hair and her jacket was just a really s—t, old shirt.”

ASTRID ANDERSEN

Streetwear meets luxury fashion in Astrid Andersen with blue, red and orange being the main colours of the AW19 collection. An exploration of the classic male silhouette and the pin stripe tracksuit, the Autumn/Winter designs are an ode to 1920s’ American fashion, a step away from the label’s previous inspirations. However, despite its new unexpected design, Andersen remains comfortably rooted in the materials used in even her earliest collections, in particular her signature combination of lace and fur.

PER GÖTESSON

In a celebration of artisanal making and craftsmanship, the designer showcased his signature expressive draping techniques, as well as a unique take on deconstruction. Relaxed silhouettes – as seen for instance in a double-breasted Prince of Wales check blazer with crisp white cuffs peeking out from the sleeves – exercised both precise construction and soft tailoring. The colour pallete was in soft tones with apricot, dusty lavender and off white being the main colours of the collection.

XANDER ZHOU

A very thughtful but playful collection which came from the future for the future. From prosthetics used on models from ‘alien’ eyes to bionic components the Xander Zhou AW19 was the favourite one on instagram.

The clothes were a beautiful paradox too – modern men accessorising with flippers and furry feeding bottles to engineers donning 70s-esque polonecks. The collection overall has a hopeful message, one of belonging. Accepting the ‘other’ is the future..

OLIVER SPENCER

Eco-wools, tailored coats , utilitarian bomber jackets and velvet trousers were some of the statement pieces of the AW19 collection in OLIVER SPENCER show. The earth colours were on top with many blue tones too and the ‘eco-green’ on its best.

We loved the suits and all the tailoring he proposed like every season with the Royal Academy as the show venue being one of our fevourites this year.

FENG CHEN WANG

History and heritage permeates the AW19 FENG CHEN WANG collection through the symbolism, iconography and painting with brush strokes, turning her artistic ideas into design prints and forms. In a collection of 41 looks, Fend Chen Wang’s textures and palettes are as pure as the story their telling – from pale pastels to soft fabrics, there was bold tailoring to portray strength and oversized shapes to show creative power.

London Fashion Week Men's: Day 1 HIGHLIGHTS

The autumn/winter 2019 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off yesterday in its new home at Brick Lane’s Truman Brewery. Our style editor Martina Ghia and fashion journalist Stephen George have taken over our social media for the weekend and here are all the highlights from DAY 1:

Day one showcased what London has become today: Upcoming and international designer names on the schedule with creativity and diversity on their best.

BOBBY ABLEY

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection. Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.

ICEBERG:

90s and modern sport wear references were the main characteristics of ICEBERG AW19 show. Mickey became the protagonist of the apres-ski style of the collection which have been combined perfectly with the bold colours and the british punk references on grooming and styling.

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN:

Live music from London indie group Wild Daughter, a plethora of leopard print and heavy leather trench coats and trousers were some of the John Lawrence Sullivan’s fashion elements during his underground AW19 show. Strong textures and bold colours have been combined to create the new contemporary menswear.

Qasimi:

Amidst the current uncertain political and social climate, Qasimi’s urban nomad travels to the near future with a vision of hope within a utopian landscapefor autumn/winter 2019.

Utilitarian sportswear, bold colours with burgundy as the protagonist and protective layering are the three main trends that Qasimi is proposing for the next winter.

Concluding Day 1 it is worth to mention the British emerging talents who turned into tailoring with a twist for next winter.

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY


CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY




Dior Men Pre Fall 2019

Kim Jones is building his vision for Dior Men with the notion that rules are meant to be broken.

First, he separated himself from a decade of “Dior Homme” and its super-skinny silhouette with a new name, and a fresh, boxier cut. Now, half a season in, he’s taking his vision on the road, landing in Tokyo with a Pre-Fall extravaganza to rival the season’s blockbuster womenswear shows.

On the runway were items for all kinds of guys, from the ones who want to wear a monogram silk shirt with cherry blossom accents to others who are looking for dapper houndstooth suits with posh, asymmetric blazers. A white astrakhan bomber that shaded into a toile de Jouy summed it up: something elegant as hell, yet grounded in utility, and designed with couture craftsmanship and know-how.

All of this was brought together around a 39-and-a-half-foot statue of a silver robo-babe by the Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama.

Watch the full show below:

source: vogue.com