Exploring Rebellion and Heritage: JORDANLUCA's Impactful Runway at Milan Fashion Week

Amidst the stellar shows of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a singular brand dared to stand out. JordanLuca, the rising cult label, known for its bold, unconventional style brought London punk streetwear to Milan. Christina Dymioti captured the electric energy from the front row.

by Christina Dymioti

Founded in 2019, JordanLuca is a couture streetwear label which seamlessly blends the English and Italian heritage of its founders Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto. It is noteworthy that Mr. Pan Phillipou, the co-founder and Chairman of the brand, previously served as the CEO of Diesel and Ben Sherman. He has a background of Cypriot and Irish descent. 

Heritage tweeds were reborn with punkish spikes as JORDANLUCA's Fall/Winter 2024 collection expertly wove rebellious details into timeless tailoring. Walking into the JordanLuca runway, silver balloons, like bloated dreams, hung from every seat, and the runway was a buoyant ocean of 1,500 more. These unique balloons were designed by artist Dominic Myatt.

The clothes themselves were Punk-inspired in subversive classics. The show kicked off with tailored overcoats worn with face-hugging headwear and straight-fitting trousers, which lapped leather angular boots. Later, the same headwear was contrasted with grey suiting, where a fastened jacket covered a shirt and the renowned JordanLuca tie.

Dark eyeliner offered contrast, injecting a club-ready sensibility into an otherwise pared-back look. In fact, there was a surprise runway appearance by Andreas Kronthaler, the Creative Director of Vivienne Westwood who is also a close friend of Marchetto. Andreas graced the runway in a head-to-toe black look, a stark contrast to the buoyant balloons.

 We saw leather used to craft structured jackets, with mohawk hair styling, and chunky silver jewellery, injecting a counter-cultural edge into the look. As the show continued the party theme was seen in white blouses and dresses, finished with multicoloured polka dots. The women's pieces were particularly striking, riffing on ladylike codes with fierce and sensual numbers like the standout red leather minidress and the bias-cut frock that wrapped endlessly around the body.

pictures taken from JORDANLUCA’s Instagram Page

In essence, JordanLuca's Milan Fashion Week show transcended the ordinary, creating a dynamic narrative where balloons, Brutalist blazers, and a bittersweet hope converged. This singular brand, daring to be different, not only showcased rebellious details but also became a testament to the electric energy, leaving an indelible mark on the canvas of Milan Mens Fashion Week.

However, the party didn’t end there; it escalated into an epic rave. Collaborating with Berlin techno powerhouses π•³π–Šπ–—π–—π–Šπ–“π–˜π–†π–šπ–“π–†, they organized a massive party within a series of abandoned warehouse arches on the city's outskirts.

Dior Men at its best: Fall 2020-2021 at Paris Fashion Week

Dior Men Fall 2020-21 show was definetely one of our favourites.

Elegant silhouettes, tailoring, and innovative styling proposals have been combined to create Kim Jones’ latest vision for the Dior Man. Berets, zips, long gloves and safety pins were a nod to 1980s punk era.

The collection was a tribute to British stylist and punk iconoclast Judy Blame.

Versace SS20: Neon and Punk influences during Milan Fashion Week.

Neon hairstyles and codes punk influences on styling were the highlights of the Versace spring/summer 2020 show in Milan.

Donatella chose to pay tribute to her friend Keith Flint for that show. From the flowery set with flamboyant prints, to the casting of tops here is all you need to remember:

photography: vogue.com

Celine Men AW19 at Paris Fashion Week

n his debut show for Celine – now sans accent – in September, Hedi Slimane made it more than clear what his intentions are for the house. If anyone thought that some of the reactions to that show would have an effect on his vision, his first men’s show for Celine spelled out a big fat – or indeed very, very skinny – no. In fashion, as in life, there are certain forces that will make themselves heard. Slimane is one of them. He believes in his own vision to its utmost core: from the mechanical light installation that fanfares every show (this time it was a huge geometric ball) to the stick thin models that walk his runway (a new one turns 18 every minute), to the emerging rock bands that score his collections (the irreverently named Crack Cloud), and the vintage-inspired aesthetic that embodies his garments. No matter how deep you search, the ultimate proposal of any of his collections – and indeed the one he showed on Sunday night – is in essence the brand of Hedi Slimane.

Seasonal collections, however, are put in the world to propose something new for the immediate future. So how do you, as an observer of such collections, approach the work of a designer, who believes so strongly in a consistent point of view? You could read into Sunday evening’s Celine collection and say that it proposed a more cropped and roomier tailored trouser, or that its suiting evoked the tie-wearing Patrick Bateman yuppie dad tailoring of 1980s’ Valentino; only cut for a much, much skinnier frame. You could talk about the glitter and sequinned pieces, which were no doubt of a notable artisanal value. Or you could point out the obvious nostalgia – or was it wistfulness – that existed within the collection for the mid-2000s when indie music culture was at its high and everyone looked like the boys, who walked the 2019 Celine runway. What has to be stated – for the sake of the history books – is that Celine menswear, which didn’t exist under Slimane’s predecessor Phoebe Philo, was brought into the world looking like this.

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